Oregon · Rock climbing · Roseburg · Near Myrtle Creek

Fantasy Island

17 routes
5.5 – 5.10b/c
Sport · Trad
May–Oct
best months

Fantasy Island is a climbing area in Oregon, about 4 miles from the town of Callahan. It sits among a cluster of other climbing spots, with Tower of Doom just 0.3 miles away and Twisted Sister Formation and The Zen Spot each about 0.4 miles off. The area is known for its sport and trad routes, with grades ranging from 5.5 to 5.10b/c. The most comfortable months for climbing are typically June through September. A nearby weather station records typical averages of highs around 75°F in June and 78°F in September, with only three or five wet days a month in July and August. That station sits well below the area, so temperatures on the rock run cooler. The routes here were largely established in the mid-1990s by climbers including Greg Orton and Harold Hall. Among the sport routes are King Kong at 5.5 and Twilight Zone at 5.10a, and the trad route Through the Lookingglass at 5.8.

Around this trail

Add any of these when you start a trip
  • Sleep close

    Umpqua Safari RV Park

    Campground

    Campground · 10 mi from the trail
  • Eat after

    White Rhino Cafe and Event Center

    Restaurant

    On your way back · 9 mi
  • If it rains

    The Arts Center

    Gallery

    On your way back · 10 mi

Places © OpenStreetMap contributors

More in Myrtle Creek
  • Best time to go · May–Oct

    Best time to visit Fantasy Island

    Best months: May–October. Best months have typical highs of 55–85 °F, lows of 30 °F or warmer (32 °F where the station doesn't record snow), at most one snowy day and no more than 12 wet days.

    1. Jan

      46° / 34°

      17 wet

    2. Feb

      50° / 34°

      15 wet

    3. Mar

      56° / 36°

      17 wet

    4. Apr

      62° / 39°

      16 wet

    5. May

      70° / 43°

      12 wet

    6. Jun

      75° / 47°

      7 wet

    7. Jul

      84° / 50°

      3 wet

    8. Aug

      84° / 50°

      3 wet

    9. Sep

      78° / 46°

      5 wet

    10. Oct

      64° / 41°

      11 wet

    11. Nov

      51° / 38°

      17 wet

    12. Dec

      44° / 33°

      18 wet

    Typical high / low (°F) and days with rain or snow, 1991–2020. Measured at Idleyld Park 4 Ne, OR, 31.5 mi away at 1,080 ft. The station sits about 1,400 ft lower than this place, so expect it a little cooler here. This station doesn't record snowfall. Source: NOAA NCEI U.S. Climate Normals 1991–2020.

Routes (17)

Legend of the FallFA: Greg Orton & Harold Hall, 1995.5.10aSpiritual JourneyFA: Greg Orton & Harold Hall, 1995.5.10aTwilight ZoneFA: Greg Orton & Harold Hall, 1995.5.10aWhite RabbitFA: Greg Orton & Harold Hall, 1995.5.10aRocket ManFA: Greg Orton, Harold Hall, and Steve Miller 1995.5.10a/bBungee JumpFA: Greg Orton & Harold Hall, 1995.5.10b/cKing KongFA: Greg Orton & Harold Hall, 1995.5.5Bonsai CrackFA: Greg Orton & Harold Hall, 1995.5.6Wild ThingFA: Greg Orton & Harold Hall, 1995.5.6CosmosFA: Greg Orton and Harold Hall5.8Space CowboyFA: Greg Orton & Harold Hall, 1995.5.8Through the LookingglassFA: Harold Hall and Greg Orton, 1995.5.8Mad HatterFA: Harold Hall and Greg Orton, 1995.5.8-Bambi Meets GodzillaFA: Greg Orton & Harold Hall, 1995.5.9Dot to DotFA: Harold Hall and Greg Orton, 1995.5.9Outer LimitsFA: Greg Orton, Harold Hall, Steve Miller, and Nate Hart5.9Bloody KnucklesFA: Chandler & Greg Orton & Harold Hall, 1995.5.9+