Umpqua Safari RV Park
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Campground · 10 mi from the trail
Oregon · Rock climbing · Roseburg · Near Myrtle Creek
Turtle Rock
- 14 routes
- 5.8 – 5.13a
- Sport · Trad
- May–Oct
- best months
Turtle Rock is a climbing area in Oregon, about 4 miles from the town of Callahan. It sits among several other named climbing areas, including Mind Planet, Singer Slab and Double Chocolate, all about 0.1 mile away, and Troll's Throne, which makes it a cluster of crags rather than a single objective. For climbers heading to the area, Callahans Climbing Trail is just 0.4 mile away and offers a nearby hike. The most comfortable climbing weather comes in late summer. Typical averages from a nearby weather station run to highs in the mid-80s and only about three wet days a month in July and August. That station sits roughly 1,300 feet lower than Turtle Rock, so temperatures at the crag run cooler. Winter is far wetter, with 17 or more wet days a month from November through January. The climbing here is mostly sport, with one trad route, and the grades range from 5.8 up to 5.13a. Cracked Turtle, a trad climb of 5.8, was first ascended by David and Dee Tvedt in 2001. Shell Shocked and Scootch Adrenaline is the hardest route, a 5.13a sport climb by David Tvedt.
Around this trail
Add any of these when you start a tripSleep close Eat after White Rhino Cafe and Event Center
Restaurant
On your way back · 9 miIf it rains The Arts Center
Gallery
On your way back · 10 mi
Places © OpenStreetMap contributors
More in Myrtle CreekBest time to go · May–Oct
Best time to visit Turtle Rock
Best months: May–October. Best months have typical highs of 55–85 °F, lows of 30 °F or warmer (32 °F where the station doesn't record snow), at most one snowy day and no more than 12 wet days.
Jan
46° / 34°
17 wet
Feb
50° / 34°
15 wet
Mar
56° / 36°
17 wet
Apr
62° / 39°
16 wet
May
70° / 43°
12 wet
Jun
75° / 47°
7 wet
Jul
84° / 50°
3 wet
Aug
84° / 50°
3 wet
Sep
78° / 46°
5 wet
Oct
64° / 41°
11 wet
Nov
51° / 38°
17 wet
Dec
44° / 33°
18 wet
Typical high / low (°F) and days with rain or snow, 1991–2020. Measured at Idleyld Park 4 Ne, OR, 32 mi away at 1,080 ft. The station sits about 1,300 ft lower than this place, so expect it a little cooler here. This station doesn't record snowfall. Source: NOAA NCEI U.S. Climate Normals 1991–2020.
Routes (14)
Turtle CosmosFA: David Tvedt. 2001.5.10a/bIllusions of the ShellFA: David and Dee Tvedt, 2001.5.10bTarturum TreeFA: Dee and David Tvedt, 2001.5.10cThe View from InsideFA: Dee and David Tvedt. 2001.5.10cInner SpaceFA: David and Dee Tvedt, 2001.5.10dTurtle in RevolutionFA: Dee and David Tvedt, 2001.5.10dHead Out & Eek AdrenalineFA: David and Dee Tvedt, 1999.5.11aScarier TurtlesFA: David and Dee Tvedt, 2001.5.11bScary Turtles5.11bHead Out and Tarturum EpistemologyFA: David and Dee Tvedt, 2002.5.11cShell Shocked and Scootch AdrenalineFA: David Tvedt5.13aCracked TurtleFA: David and Dee Tvedt, 2001.5.8Paradigm ShiftFA: Dee and David Tvedt5.9Turtle SoupFA: Dvedt Family. 2001.5.9
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