New York · Rock climbing · Gardiner · Near New Windsor

f. The Guides' Wall (Madame G's)

35 routes
5.2 – 5.10c
Trad · Mixed
Apr, Jun–Oct
best months

f. The Guides' Wall (Madame G's) is a climbing area within the Mohonk Preserve in New York, managed by a non-governmental organization. The surrounding area holds several other climbing spots, and Millbrook Ridge Trail and Old Minnewaska Trail lie within a mile, making it easy to pair a day of climbing with a hike. The rock here draws on a long history of traditional climbing. Of the 35 routes in the area, 33 are trad and two are mixed, and they span from 5.2 to 5.10c. Willie's Weep (5.2) and Minty (5.4) are among the easiest, while Reach of Faith (5.10c) is the hardest. The area is best suited to climbers who enjoy a range of grades on established traditional routes. Summer is the most comfortable time to climb, with typical July highs around 83°F and lows near 64°F, based on averages from the Mohonk Lake weather station about 2.4 miles away. Winter brings highs in the mid-30s and several snowy days a month from December through February.

Around this trail

Add any of these when you start a trip
  • Sleep close

    Samuel F. Pryor III Shawangunk Gateway Campground

    Campground

    Campground · 0.6 mi from the trail
  • Eat after

    Bobo’s Farm

    Restaurant

    On your way back · 3 mi
  • If it rainsRolf Müller ( User:Rolfmueller ), CC BY-SA 3.0 · Wikimedia Commons

    Dia:Beacon

    Museum

    On your way back · 20 mi

Places © OpenStreetMap contributors · Photos: Rolf Müller ( User:Rolfmueller ), CC BY-SA 3.0 (commons)

More in New Windsor
  • Best time to go · Apr, Jun–Oct

    Best time to visit f. The Guides' Wall (Madame G's)

    Best months: April and June–October. Best months have typical highs of 55–85 °F, lows of 30 °F or warmer (32 °F where the station doesn't record snow), at most one snowy day and no more than 12 wet days.

    1. Jan

      34° / 19°

      11 wet · 7 snow

    2. Feb

      37° / 20°

      9 wet · 6 snow

    3. Mar

      46° / 27°

      11 wet · 4 snow

    4. Apr

      60° / 39°

      11 wet · 1 snow

    5. May

      71° / 50°

      13 wet

    6. Jun

      78° / 59°

      12 wet

    7. Jul

      83° / 64°

      12 wet

    8. Aug

      80° / 63°

      11 wet

    9. Sep

      73° / 56°

      10 wet

    10. Oct

      61° / 45°

      11 wet

    11. Nov

      49° / 35°

      10 wet · 2 snow

    12. Dec

      38° / 25°

      11 wet · 5 snow

    Typical high / low (°F) and days with rain or snow, 1991–2020. Measured at Mohonk Lake, NY, 2.4 mi away at 1,245 ft. Source: NOAA NCEI U.S. Climate Normals 1991–2020.

Routes (35)

Blueberry WineFA: John Stannard5.10+Beatle Brow BulgeFA: FA: Jim McCarthy, Matt Hale, Jim Alt, 1966. FFA: John Stannard, Henry Barber, 1973.5.10aSeldom Mustard Never RelishFA: Steve and Cory Jones 19795.10bTetoniaFA: FKA as described B.Heller August 20105.10bReach of FaithFA: Ivan Rezucha and Annie O'Neill5.10cWillie's WeepFA: George and Herbert Evans and Robert Graef (1953)5.2Northern PillarFA: Hans Krauss and Susanne Simon (1941)5.3Southern PillarFA: Hans Kraus, Roger Wolcott, Del Wilde, 19415.3Twin OaksFA: Gardiner and Mary Perry (1957)5.3Beginner's DelightFA: Hans Kraus, Roger Wolcott, Del Wolcott, 19485.4Don't ShootFA: Dave Ingalls and Vin Hoeman, 19655.4Easy VersionFA: Fritz Weissner, Betty Woolsey and Mary Cecil, 19425.4MintyFA: Fritz Wiessner, Minty Warren, Betty Woolsey, 19415.4Tipsy TreesFA: Gardiner and Mary Perry, 19585.4AsphodelFA: 1953, Hans Kraus and Bonnie Prudden5.5Blueberry LedgesFA: Willie Crowther and Gardiner Perry, 19585.5Brave ValkyrieFA: Hans Kraus, Bonnie Prudden, 19545.5Finger Locks or Cedar Box5.5Funny FaceFA: Jim McCarthy and Tim Mutch, 19545.5HawkFA: Willie Crowther, Gardiner and Mary Perry, 19585.5Triple BulgesFA: John Lomont and Francis Coffin, 19595.5Immaculate VirginFA: Todd Swain and John Thackray, 1986 pitch 1 Jim McCarthy and John Reppy 1967 pitch 25.6Madame Grunnebaum's WulstFA: Hans Kraus, Harry Snyder, 19435.6Son of Bitchy VirginFA: Jim McCarthy and John Reppy (1967)5.6Weeping Willie (direct)5.6PeregrineFA: Ivan Rezucha and Bill Ravitch, 19805.7Small Furry Mammals' ClubFA: (TR, FRA) 12/13/2015, Ajax Greene, Barb Moran, and Chris Moratz5.7ColumbiaFA: Roy Kligfield, Dave Ingalls and Jim Driscoll (1969). FFA Joe Kelsey (1969)5.8Mr. P's WurstFA: Rich Perch (Mr P) and5.8Snooky's ReturnFA: Jim McCarthy and Dave Craft, 19585.8Bag's EndFA: Ivan Rezucha and Annie O'Neill5.8+Hyjek's HorrorFA: Mike Hyjek and John Lomont (1963)5.8+Friends and LoversFA: Ron Sacks, Anne Dubats, Mike Sawicky, Rick Cronk 19785.9Delusions of GrandeurFA: Chris Monz and Mike Sawicky5.9+Le TetonFA: Jim McCarthy, Stan Gross, Spring 1955. FFA: Art Gran, Lito Tejada-Flores, 19655.9+

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