New York · Rock climbing · Gardiner · Near New Windsor

g. V3 - Middle Earth

g. V3 - Middle EarthPhoto: Jarek Tuszyński, CC BY-SA 3.0 (via Wikimedia Commons)
47 routes
5.2 – 5.13d
Trad · Mixed · Sport
Apr, Jun–Oct
best months

V3 - Middle Earth is a climbing area in New York's Mohonk Preserve, land managed by a non-governmental organization. It sits within a tight cluster of climbing spots, making it easy to combine with other areas in a single outing. Late spring and early fall are the most comfortable times to climb here. Typical averages from the nearby Mohonk Lake weather station show September highs around 73°F with lows near 56°F, and May runs similarly at about 71°F and 50°F. Trapps Bouldering, Herman Boulder and Andrew Area all lie about 0.1 mile away. For a walk between sessions, the Old Minnewaska Trail is roughly 0.8 mile off.

Around this trail

Add any of these when you start a trip
  • Sleep close

    Samuel F. Pryor III Shawangunk Gateway Campground

    Campground

    Campground · 0.7 mi from the trail
  • Eat after

    Bobo’s Farm

    Restaurant

    On your way back · 3 mi
  • If it rainsRolf Müller ( User:Rolfmueller ), CC BY-SA 3.0 · Wikimedia Commons

    Dia:Beacon

    Museum

    On your way back · 20 mi

Places © OpenStreetMap contributors · Photos: Rolf Müller ( User:Rolfmueller ), CC BY-SA 3.0 (commons)

More in New Windsor
  • Best time to go · Apr, Jun–Oct

    Best time to visit g. V3 - Middle Earth

    Best months: April and June–October. Best months have typical highs of 55–85 °F, lows of 30 °F or warmer (32 °F where the station doesn't record snow), at most one snowy day and no more than 12 wet days.

    1. Jan

      34° / 19°

      11 wet · 7 snow

    2. Feb

      37° / 20°

      9 wet · 6 snow

    3. Mar

      46° / 27°

      11 wet · 4 snow

    4. Apr

      60° / 39°

      11 wet · 1 snow

    5. May

      71° / 50°

      13 wet

    6. Jun

      78° / 59°

      12 wet

    7. Jul

      83° / 64°

      12 wet

    8. Aug

      80° / 63°

      11 wet

    9. Sep

      73° / 56°

      10 wet

    10. Oct

      61° / 45°

      11 wet

    11. Nov

      49° / 35°

      10 wet · 2 snow

    12. Dec

      38° / 25°

      11 wet · 5 snow

    Typical high / low (°F) and days with rain or snow, 1991–2020. Measured at Mohonk Lake, NY, 2.2 mi away at 1,245 ft. Source: NOAA NCEI U.S. Climate Normals 1991–2020.

Routes (47)

Smegma Garden and Pigeon4thNever Say NeverFA: Dick Williams, Jim McCarthy, 19715.10Yenta5.10Never Never LandFA: Art Gran, Dave Craft, Jim McCarthy, 1959. FFA: Jim McCarthy, George Hurley, 19645.10aBalrogFA: Jim McCarthy, Rich Goldstone5.10bCity StreetsFA: Ivan Rezucha, Joe Bridges and Dick Saum, 19765.10bDat-MantelFA: 1976 Rich Perch, Kevin Bein, Barbara Devine, Rich Ross5.10bDis-MantelFA: Joe Strutt, Roy Kligfield, Jack Hunt 19735.10bJ'accuseFA: Jim McCarthy and Patrick Cordier, 1971. FFA: Scott Stewart and Rich Romano, 1973.5.10bNevermoreFA: Rich Ross5.10bCheap ThrillsFA: 1972 Roy Kligfield and Kevin Bein5.10cSet my bow in the cloudFA: Donald Perry May 11, 1993.5.11-On Any MondayFA: Dick Williams, Joe Bridges5.11aCountry RoadsFA: FFA John Stannard and Pat Milligan 19715.11bDeep ChillsFA: 1982 Russ Raffa, Bob D'Antonio, Russ Clune, Hugh Herr5.11dHELP!FA: 1973 John Stannard and John Bragg5.11dPLEH!FA: 1985 Jim Damon and Mick Avery5.12aBullfrogFA: felix modugno and jim damon5.12a/bLarge Hardon ColliderFA: Andy Salo, Scott Barocas, Tim Keenan 20175.13aMonumantelFA: Brian Kim 20125.13dRed's RuinFA: 1950's5.2SnowpatchFA: Dick Williams and Art Gran, 19705.5Middle EarthFA: Joe Kelsey and Roman Laba, 19675.6SnakeFA: Hans Krauss, Susanne Simon 19445.6WisecrackFA: Art Gran and Pete Vlachos (1965)5.6Alley OopFA: Jim McCarthy, Hans Kraus, and Stan Gross, 19565.7CakewalkFA: Jim Mcarthy & Hans Kraus5.7V-3FA: Hans Kraus, Ken Prestrud, Bonnie Prudden, 19545.7Bombs Away Dream BabyFA: Ray Dobkin and Stan Hayes, 19805.7+Thin Slabs / Thin Slabs DirectFA: Art Gran, John Wharton, Bob Chambers, 1956. FA (Direct P3): Art Gran, 1958. FFA (Direct P3): John Turner5.7+RaunchyFA: Jim McCarthy & Bill Goldner, Fall 19635.8Sheep ThrillsFA: 10/14/1979 by Ivan Rezucha and Paul Rezucha5.8Talus of PowderFA: Rich Perch, Russ Clune, 19815.8WonderlandFA: Art Gran and Eric Stern (1959)5.8AbsurdlandFA: Jim McCarthy & George Bloom - 19605.8+Dry HeavesFA: Mark Robinson, Sandy Stewart, Grant Calder, 19765.8+Faithful JourneyFA: Paul Trapini, Joe Bridges, Faith Aubin 825.8+Beyond the FringeFA: FFA Doug Tompkins, Jim McCarthy, 19635.9Gory ThumbFA: Jim McCarthy and Dick Williams (1954). FFA Dick Williams (1964)5.9SenteFA: Willie Crowther, 1960, after placing the bolts on rappel.5.9TriangleFA: Hans Kraus, Bonnie Prudden, Ken Prestrud 1954. FFA: Art Gran, Al DeMaria, 1960.5.9TurdlandFA: FA: Jim McCarthy & Jack Hansen - 1959FFA: Dick Williams - 19665.9Wild HorsesFA: Dick Williams, Roy Kligfield, Al Rubin, Ivan Rezucha (1975)5.9BadfingerFA: Ivan Rezucha and Don Lauber (1982)5.9+BlunderbusFA: Mike Sawicky and Gene Smith, 19815.9+Commando RaveFA: Jim McCarthy and John Hudson, 19635.9+Intergalactic HitchhikersFA: Todd Swain et al5.9+

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