New York · Rock climbing · Gardiner · Near New Windsor

a. Beginning of cliff to Gelsa

a. Beginning of cliff to GelsaPhoto: sarahebourne, CC BY 2.0 (via Flickr)
42 routes
5.2 – 5.12d
Trad · Mixed
Apr, Jun–Oct
best months

A climbing area in the Mohonk Preserve in New York, "Beginning of cliff to Gelsa" marks the first stretch of cliff, running up to the climb called Gelsa. The land is managed by a non-governmental organization. Late spring and early fall are the most comfortable seasons to climb here. Typical averages from the nearby Mohonk Lake weather station run to highs around 71°F in May and 73°F in September. The neighboring sections are close at hand. Steel Bridge Boulders and the Terrace Area are both about 0.1 mile away, and b. Gelsa to Moe (closure) continues the cliff about 0.2 mile on. For a hike, Millbrook Ridge Trail starts roughly 0.1 mile from the area.

Around this trail

Add any of these when you start a trip
  • Sleep close

    Samuel F. Pryor III Shawangunk Gateway Campground

    Campground

    Campground · 0.5 mi from the trail
  • Eat after

    Bobo’s Farm

    Restaurant

    On your way back · 3 mi

Places © OpenStreetMap contributors · Photos: The original uploader was Daniel Case at English Wikipedia ., CC BY-SA 3.0 (commons)

More in New Windsor
  • Best time to go · Apr, Jun–Oct

    Best time to visit a. Beginning of cliff to Gelsa

    Best months: April and June–October. Best months have typical highs of 55–85 °F, lows of 30 °F or warmer (32 °F where the station doesn't record snow), at most one snowy day and no more than 12 wet days.

    1. Jan

      34° / 19°

      11 wet · 7 snow

    2. Feb

      37° / 20°

      9 wet · 6 snow

    3. Mar

      46° / 27°

      11 wet · 4 snow

    4. Apr

      60° / 39°

      11 wet · 1 snow

    5. May

      71° / 50°

      13 wet

    6. Jun

      78° / 59°

      12 wet

    7. Jul

      83° / 64°

      12 wet

    8. Aug

      80° / 63°

      11 wet

    9. Sep

      73° / 56°

      10 wet

    10. Oct

      61° / 45°

      11 wet

    11. Nov

      49° / 35°

      10 wet · 2 snow

    12. Dec

      38° / 25°

      11 wet · 5 snow

    Typical high / low (°F) and days with rain or snow, 1991–2020. Measured at Mohonk Lake, NY, 3.1 mi away at 1,245 ft. Source: NOAA NCEI U.S. Climate Normals 1991–2020.

Routes (42)

Criss Cross DirectFA: Pete Ramins, John Stannard, 19715.10aTopeka5.10aOuter Space Direct5.10a/bFat Stick Direct 5.10bFA: FA (P1) 1957: Jim McCarthy and Hans Kraus, FA (P2 & P3) 1968: John Stannard and G. Livingston5.10bDisney PointFA: Kevin Bein, 19785.10b/cThe HoundsFA: Todd Swain and Mark Wallace, 19865.10b/cPenn StationFA: John Stannard, Rich Goldstone, and Steve Wunsch5.10cFat City DirectFA: Dick Williams & Dave Craft - 1966FA (Direct): John Bragg & John Stannard - 19705.10dWandering Stars Jude 13FA: Donald Perry May 11, 1993.5.11-CrissFA: John Stannard, Willie Crowther, 19675.11aSwing TimeFA: Ants Lemeets and Elmer Skahan, 1964 FFA, Stannard, 19685.11aGeneration GapFA: FA:1968 Jim McCarthy, Dick Williams; FFA: 1969 John Stannard, Howie Davis5.11cInfinite SpaceFA: Rich Romano and Chuck Calef, 19815.12-Sling TimeFA: Dick Williams and Jim McCarthy, 1964 FFA, Stannard, 19735.12aSquat ThrustFA: Russ Clune and Jeff Morris, 19865.12aKansas CityFA: Dick Williams & Dave Craft, 1962, FFA: John Bragg, 19735.12b/cBumkeyFA: FA Dave Lanman, 1994; FFA Alan Kline, 20185.12cIron CrossFA: John Bragg 19785.12dRequiemFA: Russ Raffa, Russ Clune5.12dWichitaFA: unknown (1960s)5.2GelsaFA: Fritz Wiessner, Beckett Howorth, George Temple, 19425.4Independence5.4Saint LouisFA: unknown 1950s or 60s5.4LaybackFA: Fritz Wiessner, George Temple, 19415.5DisneylandFA: Dave Craft, Eric Stern, 19595.6Baskerville TerraceFA: FFA: Jim McCarthy 19615.7Land of The GiantsFA: Jeff Greunberg and Scott Franklin, 19855.7Le PlieFA: Art Gran & Roman Sadowy 19575.7Te DumFA: Hans Kraus, Roger Wolcott, 1949. FFA: Art Gran, 19585.7Yellow RidgeFA: Fritz Wiessner, Edward and Ann Gross, 19445.7AlphonseFA: Ken Prestrud, Lucien Warner, 1948. FFA: John Turner, 1950s5.8Dog-Stick-Ridge5.8G-StringFA: 1973 Jim Kolocotronis and Bob Jahn5.8G-String Giants5.8Le Space5.8Outer SpaceFA: Art Gran, Jim Geiser, 19595.8Fat StickFA: Jim McCarthy, Hans Kraus, 19575.8-Broken SlingFA: Jim McCarthy, 19625.8+Yellow BellyFA: Jim McCarthy, Bob Larsen, Ken Prestrud, 1957. FFA: John Turner, 19585.8+Easy RiderFA: Roman Laba and Joe Kelsey, 1969 (?)5.9Grand CentralFA: Bonnie Prudden, Hans Kraus, Dick Hirschland, 1947. FFA: Jim McCarthy, 19635.9Inverted LaybackFA: Dave Craft, Pete Geiser, 19595.9

Keep exploring — more climbs worth the drive

Steel Bridge BouldersPhoto: sarahebourne, CC BY 2.0 (via Flickr)

Steel Bridge Boulders

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19 bouldering routes in New York.

b. Gelsa to Moe (closure)Photo: sarahebourne, CC BY 2.0 (via Flickr)

b. Gelsa to Moe (closure)

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g. V3 - Middle EarthPhoto: Jarek Tuszyński, CC BY-SA 3.0 (via Wikimedia Commons)

g. V3 - Middle Earth

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Andrew AreaPhoto: Jarek Tuszyński, CC BY-SA 3.0 (via Wikimedia Commons)

Andrew Area

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h. The Arrow Wall - CCKPhoto: Jarek Tuszyński, CC BY-SA 3.0 (via Wikimedia Commons)

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t. Mya to the East EndPhoto: bgreenlee, CC BY 2.0 (via Flickr)

t. Mya to the East End

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s. The Golden WallPhoto: bgreenlee, CC BY 2.0 (via Flickr)

s. The Golden Wall

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p. Little HavanaPhoto: bgreenlee, CC BY 2.0 (via Flickr)

p. Little Havana

~2 min drive

p. Little Havana in New York has 9 routes with mixed and sport climbing.

m. Crevice right, and Psycho WallPhoto: bgreenlee, CC BY 2.0 (via Flickr)

m. Crevice right, and Psycho Wall

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CLIMB

Terrace Area

Next door

Terrace Area in New York has 7 climbing routes across 5 grades.