New York · Rock climbing · Gardiner · Near New Windsor

b. Gelsa to Moe (closure)

b. Gelsa to Moe (closure)Photo: sarahebourne, CC BY 2.0 (via Flickr)
34 routes
5.4 – 5.12c
Trad · Mixed
Apr, Jun–Oct
best months

The Gelsa to Moe climbing area sits within the Mohonk Preserve in New York, a non-governmental organization-managed land unit. The name "closure" in its title points to its status as a closed section of the preserve's climbing network, and it is one of several named areas in this part of the preserve, with the Moe (closure) to Harvest Moon and a. Beginning of cliff to Gelsa climbing areas both within a quarter mile. The area holds 34 routes, with trad climbing making up the bulk of them and mixed climbing accounting for the rest. The grades run from 5.4 up to 5.12c, with the median around 5.10a. Among the named routes are Yum Yum Yab Yum at 5.4, Silver Bullet at 5.7+, and El Kabong at 5.12c. For timing, late spring through early fall is the most comfortable stretch. Typical averages from the nearby Mohonk Lake weather station show highs around 71°F in May and 73°F in September, with July peaking near 83°F. Winter is cold, with January highs around 34°F and several snowy days each month from December through February. Other climbing areas close by include the Terrace Area and Steel Bridge Boulders, both about 0.3 miles away. Hikers can reach the Millbrook Ridge Trail and the Old Minnewaska Trail within a mile.

Around this trail

Add any of these when you start a trip
  • Sleep close

    Samuel F. Pryor III Shawangunk Gateway Campground

    Campground

    Campground · 0.6 mi from the trail
  • Eat after

    Bobo’s Farm

    Restaurant

    On your way back · 3 mi

Places © OpenStreetMap contributors · Photos: The original uploader was Daniel Case at English Wikipedia ., CC BY-SA 3.0 (commons)

More in New Windsor
  • Best time to go · Apr, Jun–Oct

    Best time to visit b. Gelsa to Moe (closure)

    Best months: April and June–October. Best months have typical highs of 55–85 °F, lows of 30 °F or warmer (32 °F where the station doesn't record snow), at most one snowy day and no more than 12 wet days.

    1. Jan

      34° / 19°

      11 wet · 7 snow

    2. Feb

      37° / 20°

      9 wet · 6 snow

    3. Mar

      46° / 27°

      11 wet · 4 snow

    4. Apr

      60° / 39°

      11 wet · 1 snow

    5. May

      71° / 50°

      13 wet

    6. Jun

      78° / 59°

      12 wet

    7. Jul

      83° / 64°

      12 wet

    8. Aug

      80° / 63°

      11 wet

    9. Sep

      73° / 56°

      10 wet

    10. Oct

      61° / 45°

      11 wet

    11. Nov

      49° / 35°

      10 wet · 2 snow

    12. Dec

      38° / 25°

      11 wet · 5 snow

    Typical high / low (°F) and days with rain or snow, 1991–2020. Measured at Mohonk Lake, NY, 3.2 mi away at 1,245 ft. Source: NOAA NCEI U.S. Climate Normals 1991–2020.

Routes (34)

Tulip Mussel GardenFA: Dick Williams, 19895.10+Predator5.10aWildmere5.10aBird CageFA: FA: Dick Williams, Steve Arsenault, & Wilber Cain - 1971FFA: Henry Barber & Bob Anderson - 19725.10bBoob JobFA: Michael Cherry, Ben Chang and Tracy Clark-Cherry, 19975.10bElder Cleavage DirectFA: Ivan Rezucha, 19805.10bTranscontinental NailwayFA: Joe Fitschen & Art Gran - 1961FFA: Jim McCarthy - 19655.10bShitfaceFA: Jim McCarthy, Jim Andress 19635.10b/cRevolving EyeballsFA: Russ Clune 19835.10cEl CaminoFA: Alex Lowe, Russ Clune, Dan McMillan (1982)5.11bRoad WarriorFA: Russ Raffa, 19835.11cBirdbrainFA: TR: Steve Wunsch, 104 Lead: The Russes Clune and Raffa, 19835.11c/dPain StrainFA: Clune, Raffa, Pete Black, Kevin Bein, and Barbara Devine 19835.11c/dTo Have or Have NotFA: 1966 Carmen & McCarthy, FFA: 1973 Stannard5.12EraserheadFA: 1983 Russ Raffa and Russ Clune5.12aTo Be Or Not To BeFA: Russ Clune (TR, 1983) Russ Raffa, Russ Clune and Lynn Hill (Lead, 1983)5.12aBoogey ManFA: Jeff Gruenberg, Russ Clune, John Meyers 19835.12bSlammin'FA: Russ Clune, 19855.12bEl KabongFA: TR: Gruenberg (1985), FFA: Smith, Harder, and Mann (1989)5.12cYum Yum Yab YumFA: Art Gran, Al DeMaria, 19605.4Grease Gun GrooveFA: Gary Hemming, Art Gran, Roger Chorley, 19585.6Lonely ChallengeFA: Art Gran and Joe Kelsey, 19655.6Loose GooseFA: Fritz Wiessner, Beckett Howorth, Hans Kraus, 19425.6Fat and WeakFA: Joe Bridges, Barbara Hart and Dick Williams, 19915.7Up YoursFA: John Weichsel, Bill Goldner, 19615.7After YouFA: Bill Goldner and Muriel Mayo, 19625.7+Silver BulletFA: Dick Williams, Annie O'Neill, 20055.7+5.8 Crack ClimbFA: early 1960s5.8Back to the futureFA: 1950s, unknown5.8Farewell to ArmsFA: Jim McCarthy, Al DeMaria, 19605.8MoeFA: Dick Williams, Annie O'Neill, Keith LaBudde, Rich Goldstone, Joe Bridges, 20075.8BirdlandFA: Jim McCarthy, John Rupley, Jim Andress, 19585.8+Princess Leia5.9RoselandFA: Jim McCarthy, Hans Kraus 1958. FFA: Jim McCarthy, 19605.9

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