Redmans Tooth

Redmans Tooth is a climbing area in the North Umpqua Ranger District of Oregon's Umpqua National Forest, managed by the Forest Service. It sits among a cluster of campgrounds, trailheads and rivers in the North Umpqua country, about 2.2 miles from Island Campground and 2.5 miles from Canton Creek Campground. The area has seven routes, five of them trad and two sport, with grades ranging from 5.6 to 5.10d. The most notable are Chimney of Karma at 5.6 and Huevos at 5.10d, both trad. Left Buddha and Right Buddha are sport routes at 5.8+ and 5.10a. The first ascents of most of these routes were made by Greg Orton and Harold Hall in the late 1990s. Summer is the most comfortable time to climb. Typical averages from the nearby Toketee Falls weather station show July and August highs around 85 to 86°F with only about three wet days a month, while winter brings highs in the low 40s and rain on most days. The station sits about 300 feet lower than the area, so temperatures at Redmans Tooth run a little cooler. The North Umpqua Trail passes close by, with the Panther and Calf sections about 2.8 and 3.2 miles away. The North Umpqua River is about 4 miles off, and the Youtlkut Pillars climbing area is roughly 9 miles away.