Oregon · Rock climbing · Idleyld Park

Secret Cleft

6 routes
5.6 – 5.10b
Top Rope · Sport
May–Oct
best months

Secret Cleft is a climbing area in Oregon, about 1.7 miles from North Umpqua Village. It sits right next to two other climbing areas, Fire Dome and Clock Tower, each about 0.1 mile away, which makes it easy to pair with them on a single visit. The area has six routes, with three top-rope and three sport options. Grades run from 5.6 to 5.10b, so climbers of different abilities can find something here. Skin the Cat is a 5.6 top-rope route, and Crack-A-Toe-A is a 5.10b top-rope route. Edge of Fear and StarGazer are sport routes at 5.8 and 5.10b. Summer is the most comfortable time to climb. Typical averages from a nearby weather station show July and August highs around 84°F with only about three wet days a month, while winter months bring highs in the mid-40s and rain on most days. That station sits well below the area, so temperatures at the cliff run cooler. The North Umpqua Trail is about 2.5 miles away, and Susan Creek Falls Trail is about 3.2 miles away. Millpond Recreation Site offers camping about 3.8 miles off.

  • Best time to go · May–Oct

    Best time to visit Secret Cleft

    Best months: May–October. Best months have typical highs of 55–85 °F, lows of 30 °F or warmer (32 °F where the station doesn't record snow), at most one snowy day and no more than 12 wet days.

    1. Jan

      46° / 34°

      17 wet

    2. Feb

      50° / 34°

      15 wet

    3. Mar

      56° / 36°

      17 wet

    4. Apr

      62° / 39°

      16 wet

    5. May

      70° / 43°

      12 wet

    6. Jun

      75° / 47°

      7 wet

    7. Jul

      84° / 50°

      3 wet

    8. Aug

      84° / 50°

      3 wet

    9. Sep

      78° / 46°

      5 wet

    10. Oct

      64° / 41°

      11 wet

    11. Nov

      51° / 38°

      17 wet

    12. Dec

      44° / 33°

      18 wet

    Typical high / low (°F) and days with rain or snow, 1991–2020. Measured at Idleyld Park 4 Ne, OR, 3.1 mi away at 1,080 ft. The station sits about 1,500 ft lower than this place, so expect it a little cooler here. This station doesn't record snowfall. Source: NOAA NCEI U.S. Climate Normals 1991–2020.