Oregon · Rock climbing · Dorena

McKinley Rock

11 routes
5.6 – 5.10d
Sport · Trad
Jun–Oct
best months

Is McKinley Rock open right now?

Alert in the area

The Forest Service lists 4 alerts for Umpqua National Forest.

As of · Source: USFS · Umpqua National Forest. Agencies don't list every closure — check before you go.

McKinley Rock is a climbing area in the North Umpqua Ranger District of Oregon's Umpqua National Forest, managed by the Forest Service. It sits among a cluster of hiking and paddling spots, with Long Ridge about half a mile away and Little Rock Creek roughly 2 miles off. The climbing here is a mix of sport and trad routes, with sport routes making up the bulk of the 11 listed. The YDS grades run from 5.6 up to 5.10d, and the hardest route is Terminator, a sport climb at 5.10d. Quantum Leap, a sport route at 5.6, and Half Moon Crack, a trad route at 5.10a, are among the named options. Summer is the most comfortable time to visit. Typical averages from a nearby weather station show July and August highs around 79°F with only about four wet days a month, while winter brings highs in the upper 30s and regular snow days. Nearby, Canton Creek and Steamboat Creek offer more hiking and paddling, and Musick Guard Station is about 6 miles away for camping. Redmans Tooth, another climbing area, lies roughly 10 miles off.

  • Best time to go · Jun–Oct

    Best time to visit McKinley Rock

    Best months: June–October. Best months have typical highs of 55–85 °F, lows of 30 °F or warmer (32 °F where the station doesn't record snow), at most one snowy day and no more than 12 wet days.

    1. Jan

      39° / 27°

      17 wet · 10 snow

    2. Feb

      42° / 27°

      15 wet · 9 snow

    3. Mar

      46° / 29°

      17 wet · 9 snow

    4. Apr

      50° / 32°

      17 wet · 5 snow

    5. May

      61° / 38°

      14 wet · 1 snow

    6. Jun

      68° / 43°

      9 wet

    7. Jul

      79° / 48°

      4 wet

    8. Aug

      79° / 47°

      4 wet

    9. Sep

      72° / 43°

      6 wet

    10. Oct

      58° / 36°

      12 wet · 1 snow

    11. Nov

      45° / 31°

      16 wet · 6 snow

    12. Dec

      38° / 26°

      18 wet · 11 snow

    Typical high / low (°F) and days with rain or snow, 1991–2020. Measured at Lemolo Lake 3 Nnw, OR, 24.1 mi away at 4,077 ft. Source: NOAA NCEI U.S. Climate Normals 1991–2020.

Routes (11)

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Rabbit Ears (Rogue)Photo: Oregon Department of Transportation, CC BY 2.0 (via Wikimedia Commons)

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Skinner Butte (aka The Columns)Photo: Visitor7, CC BY-SA 3.0 (via Wikimedia Commons)

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