New York · Rock climbing · Keene Valley · Near Schroon Lake

Lower Beer Wall

26 routes
5.4 – 5.12c
Trad · Sport · Mixed

Lower Beer Wall is a climbing area in the High Peaks Wilderness of New York, managed by the State Department of Conservation. It sits among a cluster of climbing spots, with Beer Walls and Upper Beer Wall each about 0.1 mile away and Case Wall about 0.3 mile off. The area is also close to the Washbowl Trail, about half a mile away. The climbing here is a mix of trad and sport routes, with 21 trad routes and 3 sport routes among the 26 listed. The YDS grades run from 5.4 up to 5.12c, with the hardest route, Miller Light, a sport climb at 5.12c. Trad climbers will find Anteater at 5.8 and Pegasus at 5.8+. Summer is the most comfortable time to visit. Typical averages from a nearby weather station in Lake Placid show July highs around 74°F with lows near 54°F, while winter highs stay in the 20s.

Around this trail

Add any of these when you start a trip
  • Sleep close

    Lillypad Pond campsite

    Campground

    Campground · 3.4 mi from the trail
  • Eat after

    Paradox Brewery

    Brewery

    On your way back · 14 mi · Open after 6
  • If it rains

    Schroon Lake view

    Viewpoint

    On your way back · 19 mi

Places © OpenStreetMap contributors

More in Schroon Lake
  • Best time to go

    Best time to visit Lower Beer Wall

    No month here meets our mild-weather rule. Best months have typical highs of 55–85 °F, lows of 30 °F or warmer (32 °F where the station doesn't record snow), at most one snowy day and no more than 12 wet days.

    1. Jan

      23° / 6°

      18 wet

    2. Feb

      27° / 8°

      14 wet

    3. Mar

      36° / 16°

      14 wet

    4. Apr

      49° / 29°

      14 wet

    5. May

      62° / 40°

      15 wet

    6. Jun

      70° / 49°

      14 wet

    7. Jul

      74° / 54°

      14 wet

    8. Aug

      73° / 52°

      13 wet

    9. Sep

      66° / 45°

      13 wet

    10. Oct

      52° / 35°

      15 wet

    11. Nov

      40° / 25°

      16 wet

    12. Dec

      28° / 14°

      18 wet

    Typical high / low (°F) and days with rain or snow, 1991–2020. Measured at Lake Placid 2 S, NY, 15.7 mi away at 1,888 ft. This station doesn't record snowfall. Source: NOAA NCEI U.S. Climate Normals 1991–2020.

Routes (26)

BlacksmithFA: Patrick Purcell and Bob Martin - 19925.10aTurbochargeFA: Chuck Turner, Alan Jolley, and Mark Meschinelli, 8/825.10aPat TricksFA: Patrick Munn and Patrick Purcell, 19935.10cSuperchargedFA: Jim Lawyer and Lori Crowningshield5.10cWandering LunaticFA: Patrick Purcell and Bill Dodd (TR) 9/8/885.10c/dPats' Blue RibbonFA: Patrick Munn and Patrick Purcell, 19935.12aMiller Light5.12cDiagonal Chockstone ChimneyFA: Jim Cunningham, Rich Leswing, 19825.4Afternoon DelightFA: Mike Heintz and Ron Briggs, 9/26/825.5Backs against the WallFA: Jul 16th, 1982 Jim Cunningham, Peggy Collins5.5Coors Corner5.5RedrumFA: Jim Cunningham and Rich Leswing5.5CWIFA: Jim Cunningham, Pete Benson5.6SwordFA: Jim Cunningham and Alan Jolley 5/7/835.6DosFA: May 1983 Jim Cunningham, Don Mellor5.7LichenbrauFA: 1982 Cunningham, Leswing, M Young5.7AnteaterFA: Jim Cunningham, Rich Leswing, Hal Coghill5.8DetoxificationFA: Tad Welch, Oct 19, 1986 (roped solo)5.8Joey BaggadonutsFA: 8/9/1989, Don Mellor, Patrick Purcell, Bill Simes5.8RockaholicFA: Mark Meschinelli, Dave Hough, and Chuck Turner (5/6/83)5.8EquisFA: Jamie Cunningham, Rich Leswing 19835.8-Clutch and CruiseFA: Rich Leswing and Jim Cunningham, 6/2/825.8+PegasusFA: Rich Leswing, Jim Cunningham, and Peggy Collins 7/21/825.8+Draught DodgerFA: Don Mellor and Al Jolly, October 19, 19825.9OctoberfastFA: Chuck Turner and Don Mellor, Sept 26, 19825.9Another Beer Walls Black StreakFA: 19995.9-