Oregon · Rock climbing · Dorena

Testosterone Monkey

5.10a
grade
Trad Gear
style
Jun–Oct
best months

Is Testosterone Monkey open right now?

Alert in the area

The Forest Service lists 4 alerts for Umpqua National Forest.

As of · Source: USFS · Umpqua National Forest. Agencies don't list every closure — check before you go.

One of 11 climbs catalogued at McKinley Rock, this route sits in the middle of the crag's range from 5.6 to 5.10d. First ascent: Greg Orton, Harold Hall, Leif Embertson, 1997.

  • Nearby · Rabbit Ears (Rogue) · Skinner Butte (aka The Columns) · Redmans Tooth
  • Best time to go · Jun–Oct

    Best time to visit Testosterone Monkey

    Best months: June–October. Best months have typical highs of 55–85 °F, lows of 30 °F or warmer (32 °F where the station doesn't record snow), at most one snowy day and no more than 12 wet days.

    1. Jan

      39° / 27°

      17 wet · 10 snow

    2. Feb

      42° / 27°

      15 wet · 9 snow

    3. Mar

      46° / 29°

      17 wet · 9 snow

    4. Apr

      50° / 32°

      17 wet · 5 snow

    5. May

      61° / 38°

      14 wet · 1 snow

    6. Jun

      68° / 43°

      9 wet

    7. Jul

      79° / 48°

      4 wet

    8. Aug

      79° / 47°

      4 wet

    9. Sep

      72° / 43°

      6 wet

    10. Oct

      58° / 36°

      12 wet · 1 snow

    11. Nov

      45° / 31°

      16 wet · 6 snow

    12. Dec

      38° / 26°

      18 wet · 11 snow

    Typical high / low (°F) and days with rain or snow, 1991–2020. Measured at Lemolo Lake 3 Nnw, OR, 24.1 mi away at 4,077 ft. Source: NOAA NCEI U.S. Climate Normals 1991–2020.

Keep exploring — more climbs worth the drive

Rabbit Ears (Rogue)Photo: Oregon Department of Transportation, CC BY 2.0 (via Wikimedia Commons)

Rabbit Ears (Rogue)

~1h 1m drive

Rabbit Ears (Rogue) in Oregon has 14 mixed climbing routes ranging from 5.9 to 5.12a.

Skinner Butte (aka The Columns)Photo: Visitor7, CC BY-SA 3.0 (via Wikimedia Commons)

Skinner Butte (aka The Columns)

~1h 17m drive

Skinner Butte (aka The Columns) in Oregon has 31 climbing routes.

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Redmans Tooth

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Redmans Tooth in Oregon has 7 climbing routes across 6 difficulty grades, offering sport and trad options.

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Adam's Boulders

~23 min drive

Adam's Boulders in Oregon has 5 bouldering routes across 4 difficulty grades.

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Youtlkut Pillars

~32 min drive

Youtlkut Pillars in Oregon has 10 climbing routes across 7 difficulty grades, offering sport and trad options.

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Lost Honeycomb

~32 min drive

Lost Honeycomb in Oregon has 5 climbing routes ranging across 4 difficulty grades.

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Fire Dome

~32 min drive

Fire Dome in Oregon has 12 climbing routes across 8 grades.

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Secret Cleft

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Clock Tower

~32 min drive

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North Comb

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