Oregon · Rock climbing · Tiller

Black Magic

5.10c
grade
Sport Bolted
style
Jun–Oct
best months

Caution at last check

Agency alerts are in effect for this area; weather is good · USFS, OpenWeather · checked 13 h ago

Is Black Magic open right now?

Alert in the area

The Forest Service lists 5 alerts for Umpqua National Forest.

As of · Source: USFS · Umpqua National Forest. Agencies don't list every closure — check before you go.

One of the hardest climbs catalogued at Acker Rock, where routes span 5.4 to 5.10c. First ascent: g Orton, h Hall, Jeff Lee. 1997.

  • Nearby · Rabbit Ears (Rogue) · Lost World Spires · Redmans Tooth
  • Best time to go · Jun–Oct

    Best time to visit Black Magic

    Best months: June–October. Best months have typical highs of 55–85 °F, lows of 30 °F or warmer (32 °F where the station doesn't record snow), at most one snowy day and no more than 12 wet days.

    1. Jan

      39° / 27°

      17 wet · 10 snow

    2. Feb

      42° / 27°

      15 wet · 9 snow

    3. Mar

      46° / 29°

      17 wet · 9 snow

    4. Apr

      50° / 32°

      17 wet · 5 snow

    5. May

      61° / 38°

      14 wet · 1 snow

    6. Jun

      68° / 43°

      9 wet

    7. Jul

      79° / 48°

      4 wet

    8. Aug

      79° / 47°

      4 wet

    9. Sep

      72° / 43°

      6 wet

    10. Oct

      58° / 36°

      12 wet · 1 snow

    11. Nov

      45° / 31°

      16 wet · 6 snow

    12. Dec

      38° / 26°

      18 wet · 11 snow

    Typical high / low (°F) and days with rain or snow, 1991–2020. Measured at Lemolo Lake 3 Nnw, OR, 30.2 mi away at 4,077 ft. Source: NOAA NCEI U.S. Climate Normals 1991–2020.

Keep exploring — more climbs worth the drive

Rabbit Ears (Rogue)Photo: Oregon Department of Transportation, CC BY 2.0 (via Wikimedia Commons)

Rabbit Ears (Rogue)

~18 min drive

Rabbit Ears (Rogue) in Oregon has 14 mixed climbing routes ranging from 5.9 to 5.12a.

CLIMB

Lost World Spires

~35 min drive

Lost World Spires in Oregon has 5 climbing routes.

CLIMB

Redmans Tooth

~36 min drive

Redmans Tooth in Oregon has 7 climbing routes across 6 difficulty grades, offering sport and trad options.

CLIMB

Jurassic Park

~36 min drive

Jurassic Park in Oregon has 13 climbing routes across 8 difficulty grades.

CLIMB

Chickenhead Wall

~39 min drive

Chickenhead Wall in Oregon has 14 climbing routes across 6 grades.

CLIMB

Terra Nova

~41 min drive

Terra Nova in Oregon features 11 sport climbing routes with 9 difficulty grades.

CLIMB

(.7) Spotted Owl Wall

~41 min drive

Spotted Owl Wall is a sport climbing crag in Oregon with 8 routes and 6 difficulty grades.

CLIMB

(15) 2nd Alcove

~41 min drive

2nd Alcove in Oregon has 11 sport climbing routes.

CLIMB

(16) Chockstone Gorge

~41 min drive

Chockstone Gorge in Oregon has 8 sport climbing routes across 6 difficulty grades.

CLIMB

(.8) Cascade Wall

~41 min drive

Cascade Wall is a 7-route sport climbing crag in Oregon with 6 difficulty grades.