California · Rock climbing · Kyburz

Sugarloaf Area

Sugarloaf Area in California has 12 climbing routes across 11 difficulty grades.

Sugarloaf AreaPhoto: cogdogblog, CC0 (via Wikimedia Commons)
12 routes
5.8+ – 5.12d
Sport · Trad · Bouldering

Is Sugarloaf Area open right now?

Alert in the area

The Forest Service lists 3 alerts for Eldorado National Forest.

As of · Source: USFS · Eldorado National Forest. Agencies don't list every closure — check before you go.

Best time to visit Sugarloaf Area

Best months: March–June and September–October. Best months have typical highs of 55–85 °F, lows of 30 °F or warmer (32 °F where the station doesn't record snow), at most one snowy day and no more than 12 wet days.

  1. Jan

    44° / 32°

    12 wet

  2. Feb

    50° / 31°

    12 wet

  3. Mar

    56° / 33°

    12 wet

  4. Apr

    63° / 36°

    9 wet

  5. May

    72° / 42°

    7 wet

  6. Jun

    82° / 47°

    3 wet

  7. Jul

    90° / 53°

    1 wet

  8. Aug

    89° / 52°

    1 wet

  9. Sep

    83° / 49°

    2 wet

  10. Oct

    66° / 41°

    5 wet

  11. Nov

    51° / 35°

    9 wet

  12. Dec

    43° / 31°

    12 wet

Typical high / low (°F) and days with rain or snow, 1991–2020. Measured at Pacific House, CA, 10.6 mi away at 3,450 ft. The station sits about 1,100 ft lower than this place, so expect it a little cooler here. This station doesn't record snowfall. Source: NOAA NCEI U.S. Climate Normals 1991–2020.

Closures we've recorded since August 2026

  • Fire Restrictions are in Effect Forest Wide

    Eldorado National Forest · Order dated September 22, 2026; seen Aug 23, 2026, no lift recorded · Forest Service

Sugarloaf Area is a climbing area in California's Eldorado National Forest, within the Placerville Ranger District and managed by the Forest Service. It sits in a cluster of climbing and hiking spots, with the Scone and Split Rock climbing areas each about 0.1 mile away and Sugarloaf Peak about 0.2 mile off. The route count here is 13, with sport climbing dominating and trad and bouldering also present. The most comfortable climbing season is spring and fall. Typical averages from a nearby weather station at Pacific House run to highs around 72°F in May and 66°F in October, while July and August average highs near 90°F. That station sits about 1,100 feet lower, so temperatures at Sugarloaf Area run cooler. Several climbing routes stand out. Common Girl Makes Good is a sport route at 5.8+, and Power Unchained is 5.11d. Set to Fail is 5.12d. The area also offers the Sugarloaf Peak hike and Sand Flat Campground, both within about a mile and a quarter.

Routes (12)

Bloody Arete (a.k.a. Peripheral Rock)(2)

Sugar Plum5.11+Bloody Arete5.12

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