California · Rock climbing · Kyburz

Upper Spire

Upper Spire in California has 22 climbing routes across 14 grades, offering sport and trad options.

Upper SpirePhoto: Ben Chun, CC BY-SA 2.0 (via Flickr)
22 routes
5.6 – 5.12a
Trad · Sport

Is Upper Spire open right now?

Alert in the area

The Forest Service lists 3 alerts for Eldorado National Forest.

As of · Source: USFS · Eldorado National Forest. Agencies don't list every closure — check before you go.

Best time to visit Upper Spire

Best months: May–September. Best months have typical highs of 55–85 °F, lows of 30 °F or warmer (32 °F where the station doesn't record snow), at most one snowy day and no more than 12 wet days.

  1. Jan

    43° / 18°

    9 wet

  2. Feb

    43° / 19°

    9 wet

  3. Mar

    48° / 24°

    10 wet

  4. Apr

    53° / 28°

    8 wet

  5. May

    62° / 33°

    7 wet

  6. Jun

    72° / 38°

    3 wet

  7. Jul

    80° / 43°

    2 wet

  8. Aug

    80° / 41°

    2 wet

  9. Sep

    73° / 35°

    3 wet

  10. Oct

    62° / 29°

    5 wet

  11. Nov

    51° / 23°

    7 wet

  12. Dec

    43° / 18°

    10 wet

Typical high / low (°F) and days with rain or snow, 1991–2020. Measured at South Lake Tahoe Ap, CA, 15.5 mi away at 6,314 ft. This station doesn't record snowfall. Source: NOAA NCEI U.S. Climate Normals 1991–2020.

Closures we've recorded since August 2026

  • Fire Restrictions are in Effect Forest Wide

    Eldorado National Forest · Order dated September 22, 2026; seen Aug 23, 2026, no lift recorded · Forest Service

Upper Spire is a climbing area in California's Eldorado National Forest, within the Placerville Ranger District. The Forest Service manages the land, and the area sits among a cluster of spires, with Phantom Spires and Middle Spire each about 0.1 mile away. The climbing here is a mix of trad and sport routes, with 22 routes in total. The YDS grades run from 5.6 up to 5.12a, and the median is 5.10b. North Ridge is the easiest at 5.6, and Beast of No Nation is the hardest at 5.12a. Fear of Flying, a 5.9+ trad route, was first climbed by Joel Moorem and Dale Zgraggen in 1975. Summer is the most comfortable time to go. Typical averages from a nearby weather station at South Lake Tahoe show July and August highs around 80°F with only about two wet days a month, while winter highs sit near 43°F with lows in the teens. The Pony Express Trail is about 0.7 mile away, and the South Fork American River offers paddling about 1.8 miles off. China Flat Campground is about 2.6 miles away, and Harvey West Cabin is about 2.8 miles away.

Routes (22)

Crispy CrittersFA: Bill Price, Paul Crawford and Jay Smith, 19815.10aDot to DotFA: Al Swanson, Bill Serniuk.5.10aHarrison Direct Variation5.10aThanksgiving5.10aDesperado (Roof Variation)FA: David Babich, George Connor, 19785.10bSmokehouse BrownFA: Al Swanson, Bill Serniuk, May 1988.5.10bBurnt OfferingsFA: Paul Crawford and Don Garrett.5.10dChar BroiledFA: Karl McConachie, Paul Crawford, 19845.10dNecklace Traverse "direct"FA: FA: George Connor, Dan Chan, '77. FFA: George Connor, Robert Oravetz, '795.10dRobert's CrackFA: G. Connor, R. Orevitz, 1975. FFA: Eric Barrett, J. Bowlin, 1979.5.10dT-BoneFA: Paul Crawford, Jay Smith Lanny Johnson, Mard Hudon, 19845.10dCabin FeverFA: Clint Cummins, Joel Anger, 90.5.11Arete Route5.11aSteppin' StoneFA: E. Barrett, G. Connor, Dave Stam, 1978. FFA: Dick Richardson and friends, 1979.5.11bLesbian LoveFA: Price/Smith first 25', Aidan Maguire next 25', Crawford/Smith last 25' 20025.11cHoly Smoke5.11dBeast of No NationFA: Aidan Maguire5.12aNorth Ridge5.6GingerbreadFA: George Connor, Robert Oravetz, 1975.5.7Up for GrabsFA: David Babich and Eric Barrett, 19785.8+Jugs RevisitedFA: George Connor, George Oravetz, 1975.5.9Fear of FlyingFA: Joel Moorem, Dale Zgraggen, 1975.5.9+

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