California · Rock climbing · Twin Bridges

Lower Buttress

Lower Buttress in California has 20 climbing routes across 13 grades, offering sport and trad options.

Lower ButtressPhoto: jfdervin, CC BY-SA 2.0 (via Flickr)
20 routes
5.5 – 5.12a
Trad · Sport

Is Lower Buttress open right now?

Alert in the area

The Forest Service lists 3 alerts for Eldorado National Forest.

As of · Source: USFS · Eldorado National Forest. Agencies don't list every closure — check before you go.

Best time to visit Lower Buttress

Best months: May–September. Best months have typical highs of 55–85 °F, lows of 30 °F or warmer (32 °F where the station doesn't record snow), at most one snowy day and no more than 12 wet days.

  1. Jan

    43° / 18°

    9 wet

  2. Feb

    43° / 19°

    9 wet

  3. Mar

    48° / 24°

    10 wet

  4. Apr

    53° / 28°

    8 wet

  5. May

    62° / 33°

    7 wet

  6. Jun

    72° / 38°

    3 wet

  7. Jul

    80° / 43°

    2 wet

  8. Aug

    80° / 41°

    2 wet

  9. Sep

    73° / 35°

    3 wet

  10. Oct

    62° / 29°

    5 wet

  11. Nov

    51° / 23°

    7 wet

  12. Dec

    43° / 18°

    10 wet

Typical high / low (°F) and days with rain or snow, 1991–2020. Measured at South Lake Tahoe Ap, CA, 10.2 mi away at 6,314 ft. This station doesn't record snowfall. Source: NOAA NCEI U.S. Climate Normals 1991–2020.

Closures we've recorded since August 2026

  • Fire Restrictions are in Effect Forest Wide

    Eldorado National Forest · Order dated September 22, 2026; seen Aug 23, 2026, no lift recorded · Forest Service

Lower Buttress is a climbing area in California's Eldorado National Forest, within the Placerville Ranger District. The Forest Service manages the land, and the area sits among a cluster of climbing and hiking destinations, with Campground Boulders and Dear John Buttress both about 0.1 mile away and Climber's Descent Trail at a similar distance. The climbing here is mostly traditional, with 18 trad routes and two sport routes among the 20 listed. The YDS grades run from 5.5 up to 5.12a, and Jailbreak (variation) and Black Opal are two of the more notable trad routes. Beer Can Direct and Pillar of Society are the sport options. Summer is the most comfortable time to visit. Typical averages from a nearby weather station at South Lake Tahoe show July and August highs around 80°F with lows in the low 40s and only about two wet days a month. Winter is much colder, with highs in the low 40s and lows near 18°F. Lovers Leap Campground and Lovers Leap Cg & Day Use are both about 0.2 mile away, and Pyramid Peak Trail is about half a mile off. For paddling, Strawberry Creek is roughly 2.8 miles away.

Routes (20)

Blue WindFA: Paul Crawford & Jay Smith 19805.10Jailbreak (variation)FA: Tim Kesler, Rick Sumner (1976)5.10bSurrealistic Pillar DirectFA: Lowe and Vives, 19695.10bBlack OpalFA: Paul Crawford & Jay Smith 19805.10cCrown RoyalFA: Petch5.10cHemorroids in FlightFA: R. Cashner, D. Hatten, R. Sumner, 1979.5.10cSinbad-Herbert5.10dA Boy and His ArêteFA: Eric Gable & Petch Pietrolungo, 19965.11-Beer Can Direct5.11aBlack PyreFA: Paul Crawford & Jay Smith 19805.11b/cBlack MagicFA: Paul Crawford & Jay Smith 19805.11cPillar of Society5.12aFarce (aka Novitiate's Delight)5.5For Real Crack5.7Surrealistic PillarFA: K. Edsburg, M. Edsburg, J. Sublette, 19635.7Easy Moss5.8The Groove5.8Wild TurkeyFA: Richard Harrison, Jay Smith5.8Bear HugFA: Rick Cashner, Derrel Hatten (1979)5.9Novitiate's Nightmare5.9

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