California · Rock climbing · Twin Bridges

Dear John Buttress

Dear John Buttress in California has 14 climbing routes with 9 difficulty grades.

Dear John ButtressPhoto: jfdervin, CC BY-SA 2.0 (via Flickr)
14 routes
5.8 – 5.13-
Trad · Sport

Is Dear John Buttress open right now?

Alert in the area

The Forest Service lists 3 alerts for Eldorado National Forest.

As of · Source: USFS · Eldorado National Forest. Agencies don't list every closure — check before you go.

Best time to visit Dear John Buttress

Best months: May–September. Best months have typical highs of 55–85 °F, lows of 30 °F or warmer (32 °F where the station doesn't record snow), at most one snowy day and no more than 12 wet days.

  1. Jan

    43° / 18°

    9 wet

  2. Feb

    43° / 19°

    9 wet

  3. Mar

    48° / 24°

    10 wet

  4. Apr

    53° / 28°

    8 wet

  5. May

    62° / 33°

    7 wet

  6. Jun

    72° / 38°

    3 wet

  7. Jul

    80° / 43°

    2 wet

  8. Aug

    80° / 41°

    2 wet

  9. Sep

    73° / 35°

    3 wet

  10. Oct

    62° / 29°

    5 wet

  11. Nov

    51° / 23°

    7 wet

  12. Dec

    43° / 18°

    10 wet

Typical high / low (°F) and days with rain or snow, 1991–2020. Measured at South Lake Tahoe Ap, CA, 10.3 mi away at 6,314 ft. This station doesn't record snowfall. Source: NOAA NCEI U.S. Climate Normals 1991–2020.

Closures we've recorded since August 2026

  • Fire Restrictions are in Effect Forest Wide

    Eldorado National Forest · Order dated September 22, 2026; seen Aug 23, 2026, no lift recorded · Forest Service

Dear John Buttress is a climbing area in California's Eldorado National Forest, within the Placerville Ranger District. The Forest Service manages the land, and the area sits among a cluster of climbing and hiking destinations, with Lover's Leap and West Wall both about 0.1 mile away and Climber's Descent Trail at a similar distance. The climbing here is mostly traditional, with 13 trad routes and one sport route among the 14 listed. Grades run from 5.8 up to 5.13-, with the median around 5.11a. Notable routes include Brother of John at 5.8, God of Thunder at 5.11a/b, and Stone Cold Power at 5.13-. Summer is the most comfortable time to climb. Typical averages from a nearby weather station at South Lake Tahoe show July and August highs around 80°F with only two or three wet days a month, while winter highs sit in the low 40s. Lovers Leap Campground and Lovers Leap Cg & Day Use are both about 0.2 mile away. Pyramid Peak Trail is 0.6 mile off, and Strawberry Creek offers canoeing about 2.7 miles away.

Routes (14)

Keep exploring — more climbs worth the drive

Lover's LeapPhoto: jfdervin, CC BY-SA 2.0 (via Flickr)

Lover's Leap

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Lower ButtressPhoto: jfdervin, CC BY-SA 2.0 (via Flickr)

Lower Buttress

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Main WallPhoto: jfdervin, CC BY-SA 2.0 (via Flickr)

Main Wall

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Campground BouldersPhoto: jfdervin, CC BY-SA 2.0 (via Flickr)

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South FacePhoto: jfdervin, CC BY-SA 2.0 (via Flickr)

South Face

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Central WallPhoto: jfdervin, CC BY-SA 2.0 (via Flickr)

Central Wall

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East WallPhoto: jfdervin, CC BY-SA 2.0 (via Flickr)

East Wall

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North FacePhoto: jfdervin, CC BY-SA 2.0 (via Flickr)

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Troubled Waters BoulderPhoto: ray_explores, CC BY 2.0 (via Flickr)

Troubled Waters Boulder

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Gemini BouldersPhoto: ray_explores, CC BY 2.0 (via Flickr)

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