California · Rock climbing · Kyburz

East Face

East Face in California has 33 climbing routes.

East FacePhoto: cogdogblog, CC0 (via Wikimedia Commons)
33 routes
5.7 – 5.13b/c
Trad · Sport · Mixed

Is East Face open right now?

Alert in the area

The Forest Service lists 3 alerts for Eldorado National Forest.

As of · Source: USFS · Eldorado National Forest. Agencies don't list every closure — check before you go.

Best time to visit East Face

Best months: March–June and September–October. Best months have typical highs of 55–85 °F, lows of 30 °F or warmer (32 °F where the station doesn't record snow), at most one snowy day and no more than 12 wet days.

  1. Jan

    44° / 32°

    12 wet

  2. Feb

    50° / 31°

    12 wet

  3. Mar

    56° / 33°

    12 wet

  4. Apr

    63° / 36°

    9 wet

  5. May

    72° / 42°

    7 wet

  6. Jun

    82° / 47°

    3 wet

  7. Jul

    90° / 53°

    1 wet

  8. Aug

    89° / 52°

    1 wet

  9. Sep

    83° / 49°

    2 wet

  10. Oct

    66° / 41°

    5 wet

  11. Nov

    51° / 35°

    9 wet

  12. Dec

    43° / 31°

    12 wet

Typical high / low (°F) and days with rain or snow, 1991–2020. Measured at Pacific House, CA, 10.6 mi away at 3,450 ft. The station sits about 1,300 ft lower than this place, so expect it a little cooler here. This station doesn't record snowfall. Source: NOAA NCEI U.S. Climate Normals 1991–2020.

Closures we've recorded since August 2026

  • Fire Restrictions are in Effect Forest Wide

    Eldorado National Forest · Order dated September 22, 2026; seen Aug 23, 2026, no lift recorded · Forest Service

East Face is a climbing area in California's Eldorado National Forest, within the Placerville Ranger District. The Forest Service manages the land, and the East Face sits just 0.1 mile from Split Rock and West Face, so the three areas make a natural cluster for a day of climbing. The route count here is 33, with trad climbing the dominant style at 22 routes. Sport climbing accounts for 9 routes. The grade range runs from 5.7 to 5.13b/c, with the median at 5.10c. Some named routes include East Chimney (5.7), Morticia (5.9), Tapestry (5.10b) and Grand Illusion (5.13b/c), which gives a sense of the range of options. Late spring and early fall are the most comfortable times to go. Typical averages from the Pacific House weather station, about 10 miles away, show May highs near 72°F and October highs near 66°F, while July and August average around 90°F. For a change of pace, Sugarloaf Peak is 0.2 mile away and Sand Flat Campground is 1.2 miles off. Harvey West Cabin lies about 2.3 miles away.

Routes (33)

DominionFA: Gene Drake, Dan Hart, Jim Orey 19725.10aLady LuckFA: Luke Freeman & Bill Todd, 19765.10aSouth Summit Bolt LadderFA: Warren Harding5.10aStoneFA: Greg Dexter, Steve Miller, 1976.5.10aTapestryFA: Bill Todd and Rick Sumner (1977)5.10bBlue VelvetFA: Will Cottrell and friends5.10cCrushed VelvetFA: Aidan Maguire & Scott Bye, 19985.10cMonkey FlowerFA: Aidan Maguire5.10cThe Fracture5.10dThe WankerFA: Aidan Maguire5.11aTalking HeadsFA: Jay Smith, Paul Crawford (1982)5.11bTaurusFA: Mark Hudon and Max Jones, 19775.11bTelesisFA: Paul Crawford and Jay Smith, 19875.11bPinch a LoafFA: Petch Pietrolungo circa 20045.11cBeast of BurdenFA: Chris Clifford and friends, 19845.11dBird ManFA: Michael Creel and friends (1990?)5.11dOpus 7FA: Paul Crawford & Jay Smith, 19875.11dCaptain FingersFA: FFA Mark Hudon and Max Jones, 19795.12+Eastern BlocFA: Aidan Maguire5.12aGallows Pole (direct)FA: Paul Crawford and Rick Van Horn (11b), 1982; Joel Moore (11d)5.12aThe East FaceFA: Dan Patitucci and Joel Moore, June 19905.12aThe Mini IllusionFA: Paul Crawford5.12bThe FalconFA: Aidan Maguire?5.12dGrand IllusionFA: Unknown, FFA: Tony Yaniro, 19795.13b/cEast Chimney5.7Harding's ChimneyFA: Warren Harding, John Ohrenschall, 1954.5.7ScheisterFA: unknown, 1950's5.7LurchFA: Jim Hicks, Larry Morris, 1971.5.8Over the EdgeFA: Jay Smith?5.8+FarleyFA: Eric Beck, Steve Roper, mid-1960's5.9MorticiaFA: Aidan McGuire5.9Swallows TaleFA: Aidan Maguire and Jerry Klatt, 20115.9The Fang-Left SideFA: FFA: Jim Orey, M. Vincent, 19715.9

Keep exploring — more climbs worth the drive