California · Rock climbing · Kyburz

Midway Rock

Midway Rock in California has 11 climbing routes across 7 grades, offering sport and trad climbing.

11 routes
5.8+ – 5.11b/c
Sport · Trad

Is Midway Rock open right now?

Alert in the area

The Forest Service lists 3 alerts for Eldorado National Forest.

As of · Source: USFS · Eldorado National Forest. Agencies don't list every closure — check before you go.

Best time to visit Midway Rock

Best months: March–June and September–October. Best months have typical highs of 55–85 °F, lows of 30 °F or warmer (32 °F where the station doesn't record snow), at most one snowy day and no more than 12 wet days.

  1. Jan

    44° / 32°

    12 wet

  2. Feb

    50° / 31°

    12 wet

  3. Mar

    56° / 33°

    12 wet

  4. Apr

    63° / 36°

    9 wet

  5. May

    72° / 42°

    7 wet

  6. Jun

    82° / 47°

    3 wet

  7. Jul

    90° / 53°

    1 wet

  8. Aug

    89° / 52°

    1 wet

  9. Sep

    83° / 49°

    2 wet

  10. Oct

    66° / 41°

    5 wet

  11. Nov

    51° / 35°

    9 wet

  12. Dec

    43° / 31°

    12 wet

Typical high / low (°F) and days with rain or snow, 1991–2020. Measured at Pacific House, CA, 10.5 mi away at 3,450 ft. The station sits about 1,000 ft lower than this place, so expect it a little cooler here. This station doesn't record snowfall. Source: NOAA NCEI U.S. Climate Normals 1991–2020.

Closures we've recorded since August 2026

  • Fire Restrictions are in Effect Forest Wide

    Eldorado National Forest · Order dated September 22, 2026; seen Aug 23, 2026, no lift recorded · Forest Service

Midway Rock is a climbing area in California's Eldorado National Forest, within the Placerville Ranger District. The Forest Service manages the land, and the area sits among several other named climbing spots, making it easy to pair with other routes in the same stretch. For climbing, Midway Rock has 11 routes, with sport climbing the dominant style. Trad climbing is also present. Grades range from 5.8+ up to 5.11+. Among the sport routes, Dauntless is rated 5.11b/c and Senro No Ejjin is 5.11+. Self Abuse, a trad route, is 5.10b. Spring and fall are the most comfortable times to visit. Typical averages from a nearby weather station in Pacific House run to highs around 72°F in May and 66°F in October. That station sits roughly 1,000 feet lower than the area, so temperatures here tend to run cooler. Dental Wall and The Scone are both about a tenth of a mile away. Sugarloaf Peak is 0.3 miles off. Sand Flat Campground is about a mile away.

Routes (11)

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