M) Fantasy Area
M) Fantasy Area in West Virginia has 19 climbing routes across 12 grades, offering sport and trad options.
- 19 routes
- 5.8 – 5.12b
- Sport · Trad
Is M) Fantasy Area open right now?
No closures listed
The National Park Service lists no closures for New River Gorge National Park and Preserve.
As of · Source: NPS · New River Gorge National Park and Preserve. Agencies don't list every closure — check before you go.
Best time to visit M) Fantasy Area
Best months: June–October. Best months have typical highs of 55–85 °F, lows of 30 °F or warmer (32 °F where the station doesn't record snow), at most one snowy day and no more than 12 wet days.
Jan
41° / 23°
15 wet
Feb
44° / 25°
13 wet
Mar
52° / 31°
14 wet
Apr
64° / 41°
14 wet
May
72° / 50°
14 wet
Jun
79° / 58°
12 wet
Jul
81° / 61°
12 wet
Aug
81° / 60°
11 wet
Sep
75° / 54°
9 wet
Oct
65° / 42°
10 wet
Nov
54° / 33°
11 wet
Dec
45° / 27°
14 wet
Typical high / low (°F) and days with rain or snow, 1991–2020. Measured at Oak Hill, WV, 7.9 mi away at 2,040 ft. This station doesn't record snowfall. Source: NOAA NCEI U.S. Climate Normals 1991–2020.
Fantasy Area is a climbing area in New River Gorge National Park and Preserve in West Virginia, managed by the National Park Service. It sits among a cluster of other climbing areas, including Dr. Ruth's Big Buttress, Endless Wall and N) The Undeserved Area, all within about a tenth of a mile. The area is known for its mix of sport and trad routes, with grades ranging from 5.8 to 5.12b. The most comfortable months for climbing are typically late spring and early fall. Typical averages from a nearby weather station in Oak Hill run from highs around 72°F in May to about 75°F in September, with September seeing the fewest wet days of the year. The routes here include both trad and sport options. Fantasy, a trad route at 5.8, was first climbed by Tim Mein and Rich Pleiss in 1984. Mr. Fantasy, a sport route at 5.11c, was first climbed by Rick Mix in 1993, and Fantasy Face, a sport route at 5.12a, was first climbed by Paul Harmon.
Routes (19)
Keep exploring — more climbs worth the drive
Photo: daveynin, CC BY 2.0 (via Flickr)I) Honeymooner's Area
~0 min drive
I) Honeymooner's Area in West Virginia has 30 climbing routes across 17 grades.
Photo: tr.robinson, CC BY-SA 2.0 (via Flickr)P) Jacob's Ladder Area
~0 min drive
Jacob's Ladder Area in West Virginia has 9 climbing routes with sport and trad options.
Photo: daveynin, CC BY 2.0 (via Flickr)G) Diamond Point
~1 min drive
G) Diamond Point in West Virginia has 19 climbing routes with 13 difficulty grades.
Photo: daveynin, CC BY 2.0 (via Flickr)F) Flash Point Area
~1 min drive
F) Flash Point Area in West Virginia has 8 routes with 7 difficulty grades, offering sport and trad climbing.
Photo: Wv funnyman, CC BY-SA 4.0 (via Wikimedia Commons)E) Kaymoor Slabs
~1 min drive
14-route climbing crag in West Virginia with sport and trad options.
Photo: tr.robinson, CC BY-SA 2.0 (via Flickr)R) The Cirque
~1 min drive
R) The Cirque in West Virginia has 27 climbing routes across 16 difficulty grades.
L) Dr. Ruth's Big Buttress
~0 min drive
11 climbing routes in West Virginia spanning 9 difficulty grades.
Endless Wall
~0 min drive
Endless Wall in West Virginia has 17 climbing routes across 15 difficulty grades.
N) The Undeserved Area
~0 min drive
11-route climbing crag in West Virginia with sport and trad options.
K) Scream Seam Area
~0 min drive
K) Scream Seam Area in West Virginia has 8 climbing routes with 7 difficulty grades.
