West Virginia · Rock climbing · Ames Heights

Junkyard Wall

Junkyard Wall in West Virginia has 35 climbing routes across 20 difficulty grades.

35 routes
5.6 – 5.12c
Trad · Mixed · Sport

Is Junkyard Wall open right now?

No closures listed

The National Park Service lists no closures for New River Gorge National Park and Preserve.

As of · Source: NPS · New River Gorge National Park and Preserve. Agencies don't list every closure — check before you go.

Best time to visit Junkyard Wall

Best months: April–November. Best months have typical highs of 55–85 °F, lows of 30 °F or warmer (32 °F where the station doesn't record snow), at most one snowy day and no more than 12 wet days.

  1. Jan

    42° / 23°

  2. Feb

    46° / 25°

  3. Mar

    55° / 31°

  4. Apr

    68° / 40°

  5. May

    75° / 49°

  6. Jun

    81° / 58°

  7. Jul

    84° / 62°

  8. Aug

    83° / 61°

  9. Sep

    78° / 54°

  10. Oct

    68° / 43°

  11. Nov

    56° / 33°

  12. Dec

    46° / 27°

Typical high / low (°F) and days with rain or snow, 1991–2020. Measured at Anstead Hawks Nest Sp, WV, 3.3 mi away at 1,296 ft. This station doesn't record snowfall. Source: NOAA NCEI U.S. Climate Normals 1991–2020.

Junkyard Wall is a climbing area in New River Gorge National Park and Preserve in West Virginia, managed by the National Park Service. It sits among a cluster of climbing and hiking spots, with the Junkyard Area Trail, Zealous Area and Junkyard Cave all about 0.1 mile away. The area has 35 routes, with trad climbing the most common style. The YDS grades run from 5.6 up to 5.12c, and the hardest route is Mystery Dance at 5.12c. Among the named routes are Mr. Ed at 5.8 and Rhododenema at 5.10a, both trad. For timing, late spring and early fall are the most comfortable. Typical averages from a nearby weather station show May highs around 75°F and September highs around 78°F, with lows in the 40s and 50s. Winter is cold, with January highs near 42°F and lows around 23°F. Nearby, the Hawks Nest Connector Trail is about 0.2 mile away, and Dog Wall and Moe Area are each about 0.3 mile off. Paddlers can find Manns Creek about 9 miles away.

Routes (35)

No RagretsFA: Nate Sydnor, Autumn Long, Matt Carpenter and Brooks Wenzel5.10EnteruptusFA: Doug Reed, Tom Howard June 19845.10-Lapping the SapFA: Scott Garso, Rick Thompson 8/855.10aRhododenemaFA: Eric Anderson, Andrew Barry5.10aTeam JesusFA: Swoager, Cox '855.10aThe EntertainerFA: Love, Howard '845.10aScott's Turf BuilderFA: Scott Garso, Dave Sippel5.10a/bFrigidatorFA: Tom Howard / Bruce Burgin (1985)5.10bRapscallion's BluesFA: Doug Reed, Tom Howard (June 1984)5.10cChurning in the HuecosFA: Bill and Steve Gaurin, Matt Watson 19885.10dRealignmentFA: Swoager, McCarthy '855.10dBo KnowsFA: FA - Nate Sydnor, with help from lots of folks. Many thanks to Kathy Karlo, Mark Pugeda, Brooks Wenzel, Pat Goodman and Amanda Smith5.11On Your LeftFA: FA - Nate Sydnor. Many thanks to Kathy Karlo and Mark Pugeda for the belays.5.11Bubba Meets JesusFA: Dave Merritt5.11aStuck In Another DimensionFA: Andrew Barry, Eric Anderson, Steve Lancaster (June 1985)5.11aJunk Yard DogFA: Horst, Evler '875.11bReachers of HabitFA: Horst, Guider '875.11bReaching New HeightsFA: Dave Petri 19865.11bAntropov's ColdFA: Colburn, Howard '845.11cNine LivesFA: Burgos and Parker5.11cYew NosemiteFA: Eric Horst5.12bMystery DanceFA: Eric Horst5.12c[Redacted]FA: Barry, Gibson '855.6The DistortionistFA: Carl Samples and Bob Rentka5.6Cave Routes 1 and 25.7Who Knows?FA: Steve Erskine, TA Horton5.7Jumping Jack FlashFA: T.A. Horton and Hobart Parks5.7+New River GunksFA: McCarthy, Swoager '855.7+Ann's RevengeFA: Steve Erskine, Rick Skidmore 19785.8Mr. EdFA: Steve Erskine & T.A. Horton, 19785.8New YosemiteFA: Erkstine, Horton '795.9The ContortionistFA: Scott Garso and Rick Thompson5.9V-SlotFA: Steve Erskine, Rick Skidmore (1979)5.9Crack SapFA: Scott Garso, Rick Thompson 19855.9-Four Sheets to the WindFA: Wilt, Samples '845.9+

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