West Virginia · Rock climbing · Edmond

3) The Brain

3) The Brain in West Virginia has 16 climbing routes across 10 grades, offering sport and trad options.

16 routes
5.7 – 5.14a
Sport · Trad

Best time to visit 3) The Brain

Best months: June–October. Best months have typical highs of 55–85 °F, lows of 30 °F or warmer (32 °F where the station doesn't record snow), at most one snowy day and no more than 12 wet days.

  1. Jan

    41° / 23°

    15 wet

  2. Feb

    44° / 25°

    13 wet

  3. Mar

    52° / 31°

    14 wet

  4. Apr

    64° / 41°

    14 wet

  5. May

    72° / 50°

    14 wet

  6. Jun

    79° / 58°

    12 wet

  7. Jul

    81° / 61°

    12 wet

  8. Aug

    81° / 60°

    11 wet

  9. Sep

    75° / 54°

    9 wet

  10. Oct

    65° / 42°

    10 wet

  11. Nov

    54° / 33°

    11 wet

  12. Dec

    45° / 27°

    14 wet

Typical high / low (°F) and days with rain or snow, 1991–2020. Measured at Oak Hill, WV, 8.6 mi away at 2,040 ft. This station doesn't record snowfall. Source: NOAA NCEI U.S. Climate Normals 1991–2020.

The Brain is a climbing area on private land in West Virginia, set among a cluster of other climbing spots that sit about 0.1 mile away. It is a compact, high-grade destination with sport and trad routes ranging from 5.7 to 5.14a, and it pairs easily with the surrounding boulders and trails. The area's routes are a mix of sport and trad, with sport routes making up the majority. The hardest is Super Whiny Bugs at 5.14a, and the easiest is Brain Wave at 5.7. Among the sport routes, You Want It, You Got It (5.9) and Brain Tweezers (5.10c) are both from the 1990s, and Climax Control (5.13b) is a more recent addition. For timing, late spring and early fall are the most comfortable. Typical averages from the nearby Oak Hill weather station show May highs around 72°F and September highs around 75°F, with September also seeing the fewest wet days of the year. The Headhouse Trail and Tipple Trail are both within half a mile, and the 5) Burning Buttress climbing area is right next door. Paddlers can find Manns Creek about 6 miles away.

Keep exploring — more climbs worth the drive