Oregon · Rock climbing · Chiloquin

1st Wall

17 routes
5.4 – 5.12b/c
Trad · Sport
May–Sep
best months

Is 1st Wall open right now?

No closures listed

The Forest Service lists no closures for Fremont-Winema National Forest.

As of · Source: USFS · Fremont-Winema National Forest. Agencies don't list every closure — check before you go.

1st Wall is a climbing area in the Chiloquin Ranger District of Oregon's Fremont-Winema National Forest, managed by the Forest Service. It sits among a cluster of climbing spots, with Elephant Wall and Williamson River Cliffs both about 0.1 mile away. The area has 17 routes, with 12 in trad and 5 in sport. Grades run from 5.4 up to 5.12b/c. Among the named routes are Schoolhouse (5.4, trad), Middle School (5.6, sport), and The Crimp (5.12b/c, sport), which was first climbed by TR Bill Byrnes and Grover Shipman in summer 2004. Summer is the most comfortable time to climb. Typical averages from a nearby weather station at Chiloquin show July highs around 85°F with lows near 42°F and only about three wet days. That station sits about 360 feet lower than the wall, so temperatures on the rock run a little cooler. Williamson River Campground is about 0.9 mile away, and Jackson F Kimball Campground is about 8 miles off. The Williamson River fishing area is roughly 6 miles away.

  • Best time to go · May–Sep

    Best time to visit 1st Wall

    Best months: May–September. Best months have typical highs of 55–85 °F, lows of 30 °F or warmer (32 °F where the station doesn't record snow), at most one snowy day and no more than 12 wet days.

    1. Jan

      39° / 19°

      13 wet · 6 snow

    2. Feb

      44° / 22°

      11 wet · 5 snow

    3. Mar

      50° / 25°

      11 wet · 4 snow

    4. Apr

      57° / 28°

      10 wet · 2 snow

    5. May

      66° / 33°

      8 wet

    6. Jun

      75° / 37°

      4 wet

    7. Jul

      85° / 42°

      3 wet

    8. Aug

      84° / 41°

      2 wet

    9. Sep

      77° / 34°

      4 wet

    10. Oct

      64° / 27°

      7 wet

    11. Nov

      48° / 24°

      12 wet · 3 snow

    12. Dec

      39° / 19°

      14 wet · 7 snow

    Typical high / low (°F) and days with rain or snow, 1991–2020. Measured at Chiloquin 12 Nw (Fort Klamath), OR, 8 mi away at 4,180 ft. Source: NOAA NCEI U.S. Climate Normals 1991–2020.

Routes (17)

Huggy BearFA: First Recorded Free Ascent: Andrew Mariman 20215.10aIron ManFA: F.A. Gary Lewis, Dan Nicholson, February 1976; F.F.A. Mike Molling, Cam Wogan, April 19775.10aLeft CrimpFA: First Recorded Free Ascent: Tony Maxwell May 20215.11dIron Horse5.12a/bThe CrimpFA: TR Bill Byrnes, Grover Shipman (Summer 2004)5.12b/cSchoolhouse5.4AjaxFA: F.A. Dan Nicholson, John Daniel5.6Ajax Variation5.6Middle SchoolFA: Brad Hammack, Steven Brown, 19975.6BonerFA: F.A. Mike Molling, Dan Richartz5.7Harry's FolliesFA: F.A. John Daniel, Dan Richartz5.7Boner DirectFA: F.A. Mike Molling, Dan Richartz5.8Cam's JamsFA: F.A. Cam Wogan, Dan Nicholson, February 19765.8Airball5.9Airball DirectFA: Dan Richartz (May 1976)5.9DrainoFA: F.A. Jim Langdon, Dan Richartz, April 19765.9Shin's Nightmare5.9