Oregon · Rock climbing · Trail

(14) 1st Alcove

12 routes
5.7 – 5.11d
Sport
May–Oct
best months

Is (14) 1st Alcove open right now?

Alert in the area

The Forest Service lists 5 alerts for Umpqua National Forest.

As of · Source: USFS · Umpqua National Forest. Agencies don't list every closure — check before you go.

(14) 1st Alcove is a sport climbing area in the Tiller Ranger District of Oregon's Umpqua National Forest, managed by the Forest Service. It sits among a cluster of climbing spots, with (13) Sun Dragon Block and (11) Emerald City each about 0.1 mile away. The area has 12 sport routes, with grades ranging from 5.7 to 5.11d. The median is 5.10b, and the hardest is Twilight Princess at 5.11d. Buttercup is the easiest at 5.7, and Tesla the Electric Magician is 5.10c. Summer is the most comfortable time to climb. Typical averages from a nearby weather station at Sexton Summit show July and August highs around 77°F with only about two wet days a month, while winter months bring highs in the low 40s and rain on roughly half the days. Threehorn Campground is about 3.8 miles away, and Trail Creek offers canoeing about 5 miles out. Cow Creek Falls and Devils Flat Campground are both about 7.5 miles away.

  • Best time to go · May–Oct

    Best time to visit (14) 1st Alcove

    Best months: May–October. Best months have typical highs of 55–85 °F, lows of 30 °F or warmer (32 °F where the station doesn't record snow), at most one snowy day and no more than 12 wet days.

    1. Jan

      43° / 33°

      16 wet

    2. Feb

      44° / 33°

      15 wet

    3. Mar

      46° / 33°

      16 wet

    4. Apr

      52° / 35°

      14 wet

    5. May

      61° / 41°

      10 wet

    6. Jun

      68° / 46°

      6 wet

    7. Jul

      77° / 53°

      2 wet

    8. Aug

      77° / 54°

      2 wet

    9. Sep

      70° / 51°

      4 wet

    10. Oct

      58° / 43°

      9 wet

    11. Nov

      47° / 36°

      15 wet

    12. Dec

      41° / 32°

      16 wet

    Typical high / low (°F) and days with rain or snow, 1991–2020. Measured at Sexton Summit, OR, 25.8 mi away at 3,832 ft. This station doesn't record snowfall. Source: NOAA NCEI U.S. Climate Normals 1991–2020.

Routes (12)