New Mexico · Rock climbing · Los Alamos

The Dungeon

The Dungeon in New Mexico has 8 climbing routes with 8 distinct difficulty grades.

8 routes
5.5 – 5.12a
Sport · Mixed · Bouldering

Is Dungeon, The open right now?

Alert in the area

The Forest Service lists an alert for Espanola Ranger District.

  • Headquarters Well Area Closure on Española Ranger District

    Agency alert covering Espanola Ranger District · Order 03-10-06-25-17 · USFS · Espanola Ranger District

As of · Source: USFS · Espanola Ranger District. Agencies don't list every closure — check before you go.

Best time to visit The Dungeon

Best months: April–June and September–October. Best months have typical highs of 55–85 °F, lows of 30 °F or warmer (32 °F where the station doesn't record snow), at most one snowy day and no more than 12 wet days.

  1. Jan

    40° / 21°

    6 wet

  2. Feb

    45° / 24°

    6 wet

  3. Mar

    53° / 30°

    7 wet

  4. Apr

    61° / 35°

    6 wet

  5. May

    70° / 44°

    6 wet

  6. Jun

    81° / 53°

    7 wet

  7. Jul

    83° / 57°

    13 wet

  8. Aug

    80° / 55°

    14 wet

  9. Sep

    74° / 49°

    9 wet

  10. Oct

    63° / 38°

    6 wet

  11. Nov

    50° / 28°

    5 wet

  12. Dec

    40° / 21°

    6 wet

Typical high / low (°F) and days with rain or snow, 1991–2020. Measured at Los Alamos, NM, 2 mi away at 7,424 ft. This station doesn't record snowfall. Source: NOAA NCEI U.S. Climate Normals 1991–2020.

The Dungeon is a climbing area in the Espanola Ranger District of the Santa Fe National Forest in New Mexico, managed by the Forest Service. It sits among several other climbing spots, with 45° Boulder, Main Wall and Trash Tower all about 0.1 mile away. The area has eight routes, six of them sport climbs, with grades ranging from 5.5 to 5.12a. The mixed route Chocolate Glove is rated 5.9+, and the boulder route at the site is V1. The hardest sport route is The Reverend Mr. Black at 5.12a. For timing, late spring and early fall are the most comfortable. Typical averages from the nearby Los Alamos weather station show May highs around 70°F and September highs around 74°F, while July and August bring the most wet days, about 13 and 14 a month. Pajarito Canyon and Nail Trail are both about 0.2 mile away for hiking, and the Cañon de Valle Boulders are about 1.2 miles off.