Kentucky · Rock climbing · Rogers

Midnight Surf

Midnight Surf is a Kentucky climbing crag with 11 sport routes.

Midnight SurfPhoto: Jarek Tuszyński (user:Jarekt), CC BY 3.0 (via Wikimedia Commons)
11 routes
5.11b – 5.13b
Sport

Best time to visit Midnight Surf

Best months: August–November. Best months have typical highs of 55–85 °F, lows of 30 °F or warmer (32 °F where the station doesn't record snow), at most one snowy day and no more than 12 wet days.

  1. Jan

    42° / 24°

    13 wet

  2. Feb

    47° / 27°

    13 wet

  3. Mar

    57° / 34°

    15 wet

  4. Apr

    68° / 44°

    15 wet

  5. May

    75° / 53°

    15 wet

  6. Jun

    82° / 61°

    14 wet

  7. Jul

    84° / 65°

    14 wet

  8. Aug

    84° / 64°

    12 wet

  9. Sep

    79° / 57°

    10 wet

  10. Oct

    69° / 44°

    12 wet

  11. Nov

    57° / 35°

    12 wet

  12. Dec

    46° / 28°

    13 wet

Typical high / low (°F) and days with rain or snow, 1991–2020. Measured at Beattyville 4n, KY, 7.9 mi away at 1,080 ft. This station doesn't record snowfall. Source: NOAA NCEI U.S. Climate Normals 1991–2020.

Midnight Surf is a sport climbing area in Muir Valley Nature Preserve in Kentucky, managed by a non-governmental organization. It sits among several other climbing areas, including The Boneyard, Bibliothek and Slab City, all within about a tenth of a mile. The climbing here is all sport, with 11 routes ranging from 5.11b to 5.13b. The median grade is 5.12c, and the hardest route is Shiva at 5.13b. Mellow Yellow is the easiest, at 5.11b, and A Farewell to Arms is the hardest at 5.13a. For timing, late spring and early fall are the most comfortable. Typical averages from a nearby weather station in Beattyville show May highs around 75°F and September highs around 79°F, with October cooling to about 69°F. Nearby, the Cliff Trail #206 and Sand Gap Trail - Sheltowee Trace NRT #100 are both about 3.6 miles away. Miguel's Campsite is about 4.2 miles off, and the Middle Fork Red River offers canoeing about 4.8 miles away.