California · Rock climbing · Los Gatos

Lower Muffins

Lower Muffins in California has 6 climbing routes with 5 difficulty grades.

Lower MuffinsPhoto: btwashburn, CC BY 2.0 (via Flickr)
6 routes
5.7+ – 5.11b/c
Sport · Bouldering

Best time to visit Lower Muffins

Best months: April–November. Best months have typical highs of 55–85 °F, lows of 30 °F or warmer (32 °F where the station doesn't record snow), at most one snowy day and no more than 12 wet days.

  1. Jan

    55° / 41°

    14 wet

  2. Feb

    55° / 40°

    14 wet

  3. Mar

    58° / 41°

    13 wet

  4. Apr

    62° / 43°

    10 wet

  5. May

    67° / 47°

    7 wet

  6. Jun

    75° / 52°

    3 wet

  7. Jul

    81° / 58°

    1 wet

  8. Aug

    81° / 59°

    1 wet

  9. Sep

    79° / 57°

    2 wet

  10. Oct

    71° / 52°

    6 wet

  11. Nov

    60° / 44°

    11 wet

  12. Dec

    54° / 40°

    15 wet

Typical high / low (°F) and days with rain or snow, 1991–2020. Measured at Skyline Ridge Preserve, CA, 7.5 mi away at 2,270 ft. The station sits about 500 ft lower than this place, so expect it a little cooler here. This station doesn't record snowfall. Source: NOAA NCEI U.S. Climate Normals 1991–2020.

Lower Muffins is a climbing area in Castle Rock State Park in California, managed by State Park and Recreation. It sits among a cluster of climbing spots, with The Muffins and Waterfall Cliff each about 0.1 mile away and Last Temptation Cliff about 0.2 mile off. The Ridge Trail is also within 0.2 mile, so it pairs easily with a day on the rock. The climbing here is sport, with one boulder route. Of the six routes, five are sport and range from 5.7+ to 5.11b/c, with Corn Muffin and Jelly Roll both at 5.10d. Burnt Muffin is the hardest at 5.11b/c. The boulder route is rated V6. Summer is the driest and warmest stretch. Typical averages from a nearby weather station show July and August highs around 81°F with only about one wet day a month, while winter brings highs in the mid-50s and rain on roughly 14 to 15 days a month. That station sits about 500 feet lower than the park, so temperatures on the cliffs run a little cooler.

Keep exploring — more climbs worth the drive

Waterfall CliffPhoto: Vadim Manuylov, CC BY-SA 3.0 (via Wikimedia Commons)

Waterfall Cliff

~0 min drive

Waterfall Cliff in California has 18 routes with 11 difficulty grades, offering mixed, sport, and trad climbing.

Last Temptation CliffPhoto: btwashburn, CC BY 2.0 (via Flickr)

Last Temptation Cliff

~0 min drive

Last Temptation Cliff in California has 9 climbing routes across 7 difficulty grades.

KlinghoffersPhoto: btwashburn, CC BY 2.0 (via Flickr)

Klinghoffers

~0 min drive

Klinghoffers in California has 17 bouldering routes across 13 grades.

Billy Goat RockPhoto: btwashburn, CC BY 2.0 (via Flickr)

Billy Goat Rock

~0 min drive

5-route climbing area in California with mixed and sport climbing.

Goat RockPhoto: btwashburn, CC BY 2.0 (via Flickr)

Goat Rock

~0 min drive

Goat Rock in California has 12 climbing routes across 11 difficulty grades.

Goat Rock circuitPhoto: btwashburn, CC BY 2.0 (via Flickr)

Goat Rock circuit

~0 min drive

Goat Rock circuit in California has 7 bouldering routes across 5 grades.

Underworld RockPhoto: npdoty, CC BY 2.0 (via Flickr)

Underworld Rock

~1 min drive

Underworld Rock in California has 11 mixed and sport climbing routes with difficulty grades from 5.9 to 5.12c.

360 Degree BoulderPhoto: npdoty, CC BY 2.0 (via Flickr)

360 Degree Boulder

~1 min drive

360 Degree Boulder in California has 5 bouldering routes across 3 difficulty grades.

Castle Rock ProperPhoto: npdoty, CC BY 2.0 (via Flickr)

Castle Rock Proper

~1 min drive

Castle Rock Proper in California has 19 climbing routes across 16 difficulty grades, offering bouldering pads, mixed, and sport styles.

The SpoonPhoto: Doug Olson, CC BY-SA 3.0 (via Wikimedia Commons)

The Spoon

~1 min drive

Spoon, The in California has 5 bouldering routes on rock with 5 difficulty grades.