Arizona · Rock climbing · Flagstaff · Near Kachina Village

Middle Area

Middle AreaPhoto: raganmd, CC BY-SA 2.0 (via Flickr)
25 routes
5.9 – 5.14a
Sport · Trad
May–Jul, Sep
best months

Is Middle Area open right now?

Closure in the area

There's a closure order in Coconino National Forest. It doesn't name Middle Area, so check the source for the area it covers.

As of · Source: USFS · Coconino National Forest. Agencies don't list every closure — check before you go.

Middle Area is a climbing area in the Kachina Peaks Wilderness, part of the Flagstaff Ranger District of Coconino National Forest in Arizona. The Forest Service manages the land, and the area sits within designated wilderness. The climbing here is a mix of sport and trad routes, with 16 sport routes and 9 trad routes among the 25 listed. The YDS grades run from 5.9 up to 5.14a, with the median at 5.11. Some of the named routes include Clean Slate (5.9, sport), Sunny Side (5.10+, trad), and Spirit Weasel (5.14a, sport). Spring and fall are the most comfortable times to visit. Typical averages from a nearby weather station at Ft Valley, which sits about 1,300 feet lower than the area, show May highs around 71°F and October highs around 66°F, while July and August bring the most wet days. The South End and North End climbing areas are each about 0.1 mile away, and the Veit Spring Trail is about half a mile off. Lockett Meadow Campground is about 6 miles away.

Around this trail

Add any of these when you start a trip
  • Sleep close

    Lockett Meadow Campground

    Campground

    Campground · 6.0 mi from the trail
  • Eat after

    Planet X Café

    Fast food

    On your way back · 8 mi
  • If it rains

    Museum of Northern Arizona Research Center

    Museum

    On your way back · 6 mi

Places © OpenStreetMap contributors

More in Kachina Village
  • Best time to go · May–Jul, Sep

    Best time to visit Middle Area

    Best months: May–July and September. Best months have typical highs of 55–85 °F, lows of 30 °F or warmer (32 °F where the station doesn't record snow), at most one snowy day and no more than 12 wet days.

    1. Jan

      46° / 17°

      8 wet

    2. Feb

      48° / 20°

      8 wet

    3. Mar

      54° / 24°

      7 wet

    4. Apr

      62° / 27°

      5 wet

    5. May

      71° / 33°

      4 wet

    6. Jun

      82° / 40°

      3 wet

    7. Jul

      84° / 49°

      11 wet

    8. Aug

      81° / 49°

      13 wet

    9. Sep

      76° / 41°

      8 wet

    10. Oct

      66° / 30°

      5 wet

    11. Nov

      55° / 23°

      5 wet

    12. Dec

      46° / 16°

      7 wet

    Typical high / low (°F) and days with rain or snow, 1991–2020. Measured at Ft Valley, AZ, 3.4 mi away at 7,347 ft. The station sits about 1,300 ft lower than this place, so expect it a little cooler here. This station doesn't record snowfall. Source: NOAA NCEI U.S. Climate Normals 1991–2020.

Routes (25)

Off the CouchFA: C.Tatum, JB5.10The CreatureFA: JB5.105.10 FeverFA: J.Boyd5.10+Coyote UglyFA: JB, J.Snyder, Dr. J5.10+Sunny SideFA: JB5.10+Trust the ProcessFA: C.Tatum5.1150/50FA: JB5.11-California CrackFA: JB5.11-Final CountdownFA: JB, J.Snyder, Dr. J5.11-I Love My WifeFA: J.Boyd, C.Gebhart5.11-16 WeeksFA: C.Tatum, JB5.11bTop KillFA: FOS5.11bThe Whistle StopFA: Hoffman5.11dOld WalleyFA: Hoffman5.12-PEZ - Photo Enforcement ZoneFA: FOS5.12-Amateur HourFA: Joel and Jambelson5.12+Electric ShitstormFA: Abel Jones5.12bPitbull LipstickFA: FOS5.12cThe RecoveryFA: J.Boyd5.12cBlack SwanFA: FOS5.12dChummers Class5.12dBad HombresFA: FFA: E. Mathews EB: B. McCord, J. Unema5.13Shaman SchoolFA: Flagstaff New School - D. Mauz5.13bSpirit WeaselFA: EB: Jeff Hamlin FFA: Joel Unema 20155.14aClean SlateFA: C.Tatum, JB5.9