Wyoming · Rock climbing · Devils Tower

West Face

West Face in Wyoming has 47 climbing routes across 18 grades, featuring mixed, sport, and trad styles.

West FacePhoto: w_lemay, CC BY-SA 2.0 (via Flickr)
47 routes
5.7 – 5.13a
Trad · Sport · Mixed

Is West Face open right now?

Closure in the area

There's a closure order in Devils Tower National Monument. It doesn't name West Face, so check the source for the area it covers (2 listed).

  • Bookstore Closed: November 2-November 3

    Park closure covering Devils Tower National Monument · NPS · Devils Tower National Monument

  • Campground Closed for the Season

    Park closure covering Devils Tower National Monument · NPS · Devils Tower National Monument

  • Stage 2 Burn Restrictions

    Park alert covering Devils Tower National Monument · NPS · Devils Tower National Monument

As of · Source: NPS · Devils Tower National Monument. Agencies don't list every closure — check before you go.

Best time to visit West Face

Best months: May–October. Best months have typical highs of 55–85 °F, lows of 30 °F or warmer (32 °F where the station doesn't record snow), at most one snowy day and no more than 12 wet days.

  1. Jan

    34° / 8°

    8 wet · 7 snow

  2. Feb

    37° / 11°

    7 wet · 6 snow

  3. Mar

    47° / 21°

    7 wet · 5 snow

  4. Apr

    57° / 29°

    9 wet · 2 snow

  5. May

    66° / 39°

    11 wet

  6. Jun

    76° / 49°

    11 wet

  7. Jul

    85° / 55°

    9 wet

  8. Aug

    85° / 52°

    7 wet

  9. Sep

    75° / 42°

    6 wet

  10. Oct

    60° / 30°

    7 wet · 1 snow

  11. Nov

    45° / 19°

    6 wet · 4 snow

  12. Dec

    35° / 9°

    6 wet · 6 snow

Typical high / low (°F) and days with rain or snow, 1991–2020. Measured at Devils Twr #2, WY, 0.5 mi away at 3,862 ft. The station sits about 700 ft lower than this place, so expect it a little cooler here. Source: NOAA NCEI U.S. Climate Normals 1991–2020.

West Face is a climbing area on the west side of Devils Tower in Devils Tower National Monument, Wyoming, managed by the National Park Service. It sits among several other climbing areas and trails, with Devils Tower Boulder Field and the Durrance Approach just 0.1 mile away. The area has 47 routes, mostly trad, with a few sport and mixed climbs. Grades run from 5.7 up to 5.13a, and McCarthy West Face/Hong and Mystery Express are among the more notable ones. McCarthy West Face/Hong is a trad route with a 5.11 grade, and Mystery Express is a sport route at 5.13a. Summer is the most comfortable time to climb. Typical averages from a nearby weather station show July and August highs around 85°F with lows in the mid-50s, while winter brings highs in the mid-30s and regular snow days. A fee is charged for climbing here.

Routes (47)

Deadwood ExpressFA: Ed Czech, Patrick Kingsbury May 20075.10aFractalFA: July, 1986 by Thomas and Ranier Malzbender5.10aHeatwaveFA: Patrick Kingsbury, Ed Czech May 20075.10aMan Without a PlanetFA: Brent Kertzman, Dennis Horning, Steve Babbits, and Sara Musel 9/2/915.10aTulgey WoodFA: Mark Hesse, Dan McClure '725.10aZen & the Art of Route DevelopmentFA: Lansdon Alcorn & Gabriel Skiera 9/18/205.10aJerry's KidsFA: 1985- Schlinkmann, Pee Pee, Fisher5.10bMcCarthy West Face (Variant)FA: Chris Ballinger, Dennis Horning and Steve Gardiner 7/19785.10bUp In SmokeFA: Kris Hjelle and Andy Petefish5.10bCarl's Face5.10cOne Way SunsetFA: D. Horning, B. Slichter '775.10cBurning Down the HouseFA: Bryan Schmitz and Trevor Bowman 9/5/095.10dEl MatadorFA: FA: Aid climbed by Fred Becky and Eric Bjornstad in 1967, FFA: Bob Yoho, Chick Holtkamp '785.10dSpank The MonkeyFA: Jim Schlinkmann, Mateo Pee Pee and Carl Coy 8/19855.10dMcCarthy West Face/HongFA: FA Jim McCarthy and John Rupley 7/1955; FFA Hong and Budding 19795.11BloodguardFA: FA (as "Non-Dairy Creamer" III 5.8 A3): Chris Ballinger, Jim Lynch, & Frank Sanders - 10/12/1977FFA: Skinner, Wald, Cowan, & Piana - 7/19/19845.11+Carol's CrackFA: B. Yoho, C. Black, C. Holtkamp, J. Baird, '785.11aLa Vaca SolitariaFA: Carl Coy & Mallory Ham5.11aMr. CleanFA: FA Curt Haire and Dennis Horning 7/1976; FFA Henry Barber and Chip Lee 8/19775.11aWay LayedFA: Eric Rhicard and Mark Smedley 6/19815.11aCalifornia DreamingFA: 1989 - F. Sanders & L. Kirk5.11bDead PointFA: Steve Gardiner, Frank Sanders, Mark Brackin 6/1/80 FFA: Jay Smith, Jo Bentley 8/19/885.11bLivin' the DreamFA: Nathan Kutcher & Rebecca Lewis5.11bNo Holds for BonzoFA: FFA: Mateo Pee Pee, Jim Schlinkmann 19855.11bPark PoliticsFA: P. Kingsbury, D. Lombordozzi, J. Kilroy, C. Brown Sept 29, 20075.11bScottfree5.11bSteal AwayFA: Dave Rone, Kimi Harrison, Leslie Appling: August 6, 19925.11bApproaching LavenderFA: Paul Piana, Bob Cowan, Todd Skinner, and Beth Wald, July 19th, 19845.11cCaptain Ingram's Partisan RangersFA: FFA: Gabriel Skiera & Lansdon Alcorn 7/8/205.11cLack of EnthusiasmFA: Crew from the Black Hills5.11c/dA Bridge Too FarFA: Todd Skinner, Mark Sonnenfeld, Steve Hong June 27, 19835.11dAvalonFA: Skinner and Wald, 19845.11dBuster CattlefieldFA: Tom Kalaky, Mal Ham, Bill Dockins and Kristen Drumheller 9/19855.11dDigital ExtractionFA: Keith Lober '77 FFA Hong/Sonnenfield '825.11dDouble FeatureFA: Petefish et al. 19875.11dAstro GlideFA: Eric Fazio-Rhicard, Dave Larsen, Dean Brault5.12Billie Bear Cranks the RadFA: Bill Hatcher, Todd Skinner, Rick Erker. 19855.12Brokedown PalaceFA: Steve Hong5.12aPee Pee's PlungeFA: Carl Coy, Mateo Pee Pee, Stu Richie, Rob Adair & Dan Hutchens, August 7, 19865.12aWrong Way (direct start to One Way Sunset)FA: Jim Brink, Dick Holm - 19865.12a411 SouthwestFA: Dave Rone, George Kremer: June 19915.12bSome Like it Hot5.12bGood Holds for GodzillaFA: Andy Petefish5.12dMystery ExpressFA: Andy Petefish 19885.13aBlotter is my SpotterFA: p1. F. Sanders 1989 p2.-3. F. Sanders, P. Kingsbury, J. Kilroy Oct 4 20075.7Harkness variationFA: Chris Harkness (June '05)5.8Out of SyncFA: Trevor Bowman and Gabe Skiera, 20205.8

Facts about this crag

Rules & access

Fee
Yes

Source: National Park Service API

Keep exploring — more climbs worth the drive