Wyoming · Rock climbing · Devils Tower

Durrance Approach

Durrance Approach in Wyoming has 19 climbing routes across 15 grades.

Durrance ApproachPhoto: w_lemay, CC BY-SA 2.0 (via Flickr)
19 routes
5.5 – 5.12c
Trad · Sport

Is Durrance Approach open right now?

Closure in the area

There's a closure order in Devils Tower National Monument. It doesn't name Durrance Approach, so check the source for the area it covers (2 listed).

  • Bookstore Closed: November 2-November 3

    Park closure covering Devils Tower National Monument · NPS · Devils Tower National Monument

  • Campground Closed for the Season

    Park closure covering Devils Tower National Monument · NPS · Devils Tower National Monument

  • Stage 2 Burn Restrictions

    Park alert covering Devils Tower National Monument · NPS · Devils Tower National Monument

As of · Source: NPS · Devils Tower National Monument. Agencies don't list every closure — check before you go.

Best time to visit Durrance Approach

Best months: May–October. Best months have typical highs of 55–85 °F, lows of 30 °F or warmer (32 °F where the station doesn't record snow), at most one snowy day and no more than 12 wet days.

  1. Jan

    34° / 8°

    8 wet · 7 snow

  2. Feb

    37° / 11°

    7 wet · 6 snow

  3. Mar

    47° / 21°

    7 wet · 5 snow

  4. Apr

    57° / 29°

    9 wet · 2 snow

  5. May

    66° / 39°

    11 wet

  6. Jun

    76° / 49°

    11 wet

  7. Jul

    85° / 55°

    9 wet

  8. Aug

    85° / 52°

    7 wet

  9. Sep

    75° / 42°

    6 wet

  10. Oct

    60° / 30°

    7 wet · 1 snow

  11. Nov

    45° / 19°

    6 wet · 4 snow

  12. Dec

    35° / 9°

    6 wet · 6 snow

Typical high / low (°F) and days with rain or snow, 1991–2020. Measured at Devils Twr #2, WY, 0.4 mi away at 3,862 ft. The station sits about 900 ft lower than this place, so expect it a little cooler here. Source: NOAA NCEI U.S. Climate Normals 1991–2020.

Durrance Approach is a climbing area within Devils Tower National Monument in Wyoming, managed by the National Park Service. It sits among several other climbing areas and trails, including the South and East Faces, the West Face and the East and Northeast Buttress Approach, all about 0.1 mile away, and the Devils Tower Boulder Field, a hike just as close. Fees are charged for access to the monument. The climbing here is traditional, with 18 traditional routes and one sport route among the 19 listed. The grades range from 5.5 to 5.12c. The Durrance route, first climbed by Jack Durrance and Harrison Butterworth in 1938, is listed at 5.7+. The Bowling Alley route, also known as the Durrance approach route, is a 5.5. Blue Stem Skyway is the hardest, at 5.12c. Summer is the warmest stretch. A nearby weather station records typical July and August highs around 85°F, while typical September highs reach about 75°F. That station sits roughly 866 feet lower than the approach, so temperatures on the route run cooler.

Routes (19)

Fritz's FantasyFA: Frank Sanders5.10cP.O.T.C.FA: Frank Sanders & Dennis Horning '785.10dLovely LianaFA: Frank Sanders5.11-Black-Jones DirectFA: Unknown FFA Steve Jones, Carol Black 7/7/795.11bDirect SouthwestFA: FFA: H. Barber, A. Greene, '785.11bThe interesting problem belowFA: Oct 25 2000 Christian Baird and Matt Gross5.11dTunnel VisionFA: Jim Beyer (solo, as Zephyr 5.9 A1) 6/9/79, FFA: Andy Petefish & Kris Hjelle 9/12/875.12Space RangerFA: Jack Roberts and Ranger, 19875.12aBlue Stem SkywayFA: Andy Petefish & Kris Hjelle, October 3, 19875.12cBowling Alley- aka Durrance approach route5.5Double-Edged BladeFA: Trevor Bowman and Frank Sanders October 17-18, 20085.6Late for DinnerFA: Jessica Kilroy & Patrick Kingsbury Oct 6, 20075.7SundanceFA: Bob Kamps, Dave Rearick, Verena Frymann August 17, 19585.7DurranceFA: Jack Durrance and Harrison Butterworth Septermber 8, 19385.7+WiessnerFA: June 1937, Fritz Wiessner, William House, Lawrence Covney5.7+Pseudo- WiessnerFA: Ray Northcutt, Harvey T. Carter, 8/10/54.5.8Manifest DestinyFA: Bruce Bright & Dennis Drayna '735.9Rangers Are People TooFA: J. Schlinkmann, S. Gardiner, R. Guilmette, '855.9Liken LichenFA: June, 1986 by Mateo Pee Pee and Barney Fisher5.9-

Facts about this crag

Rules & access

Fee
Yes

Source: National Park Service API

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