Wyoming · Rock climbing · Devils Tower

South and East Faces

South and East Faces in Wyoming has 26 climbing routes across 15 grades.

South and East FacesPhoto: w_lemay, CC BY-SA 2.0 (via Flickr)
26 routes
5.6 – 5.12b
Trad · Sport · Mixed

Is South and East Faces open right now?

Closure in the area

There's a closure order in Devils Tower National Monument. It doesn't name South and East Faces, so check the source for the area it covers (2 listed).

  • Bookstore Closed: November 2-November 3

    Park closure covering Devils Tower National Monument · NPS · Devils Tower National Monument

  • Campground Closed for the Season

    Park closure covering Devils Tower National Monument · NPS · Devils Tower National Monument

  • Stage 2 Burn Restrictions

    Park alert covering Devils Tower National Monument · NPS · Devils Tower National Monument

As of · Source: NPS · Devils Tower National Monument. Agencies don't list every closure — check before you go.

Best time to visit South and East Faces

Best months: May–October. Best months have typical highs of 55–85 °F, lows of 30 °F or warmer (32 °F where the station doesn't record snow), at most one snowy day and no more than 12 wet days.

  1. Jan

    34° / 8°

    8 wet · 7 snow

  2. Feb

    37° / 11°

    7 wet · 6 snow

  3. Mar

    47° / 21°

    7 wet · 5 snow

  4. Apr

    57° / 29°

    9 wet · 2 snow

  5. May

    66° / 39°

    11 wet

  6. Jun

    76° / 49°

    11 wet

  7. Jul

    85° / 55°

    9 wet

  8. Aug

    85° / 52°

    7 wet

  9. Sep

    75° / 42°

    6 wet

  10. Oct

    60° / 30°

    7 wet · 1 snow

  11. Nov

    45° / 19°

    6 wet · 4 snow

  12. Dec

    35° / 9°

    6 wet · 6 snow

Typical high / low (°F) and days with rain or snow, 1991–2020. Measured at Devils Twr #2, WY, 0.5 mi away at 3,862 ft. The station sits about 900 ft lower than this place, so expect it a little cooler here. Source: NOAA NCEI U.S. Climate Normals 1991–2020.

South and East Faces is a climbing area on the National Park Service land of Devils Tower National Monument in Wyoming. The National Park Service manages the surrounding monument, and the area sits among a cluster of other climbing spots and trails, including Durrance Approach, the East and Northeast Buttress Approach and the Devils Tower Boulder Field, all within about a tenth of a mile. The climbing here is a mix of trad and sport routes. Of the 26 routes listed, 23 are trad, with grades ranging from 5.6 to 5.12. Hollywood & Vine, at 5.10c, and The Window, at 5.12, are two of the more notable ones. The area is open year-round, and a fee is charged for visits to Devils Tower National Monument. Summer is the most comfortable time to climb. A nearby weather station records typical July and August highs around 85°F, with lows in the mid-50s, while winter brings highs in the mid-30s and frequent snow days.

Routes (26)

Free AssociationFA: John Walker, Frank Sanders5.10BittersweetFA: Dennis Horning & Frank Sanders, Sept. 19775.10+Dusk In DogtownFA: Mark Smedley and Jim Black 19805.10cHollywood & VineFA: Gary Cole, Raymond Jacquot '60; FFA Jeff Overton and Scott Woodruff 5/19745.10cDanse MacabreFA: Royal Robbins and Peter Robinson - August 19, 19645.10dDouble IndemnityFA: Steve Hong, Karen Budding and Mark Smedley 5/19805.11aExtensionFA: 1985 Dennis Horning & Jim Schlinkmann5.11aSoler EclipseFA: Eric Fazio-Rhicard, Dennis Horning, & Brent Kertzman - 19915.11bDirect SoutheastFA: FA Peter Oslund and John Horn 5/1965; FFA Steve Hong, Mark Smedley and Karin Budding 8/19785.11dRocksuckersFA: Dennis Horning and Peter L Scott 19925.11dThe interesting problem belowFA: myself and matt gross5.11dThe WindowFA: FA Royal Robbins and Peter Robinson 8/1964; FFA: Pitch 1: Sean Nelb, July 10, 20115.12Animal Cracker LandFA: Todd Skinner & Beth Wald, 19845.12bLet Me Go WildFA: FA Steve Gardiner, Terry Rypkema and Frank Sanders 10/1978; FFA Todd Skinner and Beth Wald 8/19845.12bRecidivismFA: Gabe Skiera & Lansdon Alcorn 8/5/20195.6WindexFA: Chris Harkness, Andrew Knoflicek5.6Roach AdditionFA: Steve Roach, 19915.7TADFA: Dale Gallagher, Jack Morehead '565.7+Bon Homme VariationFA: Dennis Horning, Howard Hauck '725.8Dancing With The Devils After DarkFA: June 2006 by Nate ChossMonkey and Bigwally5.8El Cracko DiabloFA: Rod Johnson and Pat Padden, 19735.8Best Crack in MinnesotaFA: Paul Piana, Bob Cowan, Todd Skinner and Beth Wald 6/19845.9CaveFA: Pete Oslund and Dave Ingalls 8/1965; FFA Dennis Horning & Frank Sanders 9/19765.9SolerFA: Tony Soler, Art Lembeck, Herb Conn, Ray Moore, Chris Scordus '51; FFA Layton Kor and Raymond Jacquot 5/19595.9Walt Bailey MemorialFA: FA Gary Cole, Raymond Jacquot and Charles Blackmon 7/1959; FFA Jeff Overton and Scott Woodruff 5/19745.9Phillip's RetreatFA: Dennis Horning with a belay from Phillip Chandler 7/19785.9+

Facts about this crag

Rules & access

Fee
Yes

Source: National Park Service API

Keep exploring — more climbs worth the drive