Washington · Rock climbing · Leavenworth

Lower Castle

Lower Castle in Washington has 19 climbing routes across 9 grades, offering mixed and traditional styles.

19 routes
5.6 – 5.12a
Trad · Mixed

Is Lower Castle open right now?

Alert in the area

The Forest Service lists 6 alerts for Wenatchee River Ranger District.

As of · Source: USFS · Wenatchee River Ranger District. Agencies don't list every closure — check before you go.

Best time to visit Lower Castle

Best months: April–June and September–October. Best months have typical highs of 55–85 °F, lows of 30 °F or warmer (32 °F where the station doesn't record snow), at most one snowy day and no more than 12 wet days.

  1. Jan

    34° / 19°

    14 wet

  2. Feb

    42° / 21°

    10 wet

  3. Mar

    52° / 26°

    9 wet

  4. Apr

    61° / 32°

    7 wet

  5. May

    71° / 40°

    7 wet

  6. Jun

    77° / 46°

    5 wet

  7. Jul

    87° / 51°

    3 wet

  8. Aug

    87° / 50°

    3 wet

  9. Sep

    78° / 42°

    4 wet

  10. Oct

    62° / 33°

    9 wet

  11. Nov

    44° / 26°

    13 wet

  12. Dec

    34° / 20°

    14 wet

Typical high / low (°F) and days with rain or snow, 1991–2020. Measured at Leavenworth 3 S, WA, 3.3 mi away at 1,128 ft. The station sits about 600 ft lower than this place, so expect it a little cooler here. This station doesn't record snowfall. Source: NOAA NCEI U.S. Climate Normals 1991–2020.

Lower Castle is a climbing area in the Wenatchee River Ranger District of the Okanogan-Wenatchee National Forest in Washington, managed by the Forest Service. It sits among several other climbing spots, with Upper Castle and The Ogre both about 0.1 mile away. The area has 19 routes, mostly traditional, with grades ranging from 5.6 to 5.12a. The Fault is the easiest at 5.6, and Shriek of the Mutilated is the hardest at 5.12a. PG Advised is the only mixed route, at 5.10b. Summer is the warmest stretch. Typical averages from a nearby weather station in Leavenworth show July and August highs around 87°F with lows near 50°F and only about three wet days a month. Winter is cold, with January highs around 34°F and lows near 19°F. The Tumwater Penstock Trail is 0.8 mile away and the Tumwater Mountain Trail is 1.8 miles away. Bridge Creek Group Site and Eightmile Group Site are both about 4 miles off.

Routes (19)

SmutFA: Dan Lepeska, John Tarver, 19805.10aBrass BallsFA: Jim Yoder, Paul Christiansen, 19805.10bClean LoveFA: Doug and Karen Klewin5.10bPG Advised5.10bThe Vertebrae.FA: Yoder, Hoven, Christiansen. 19795.10bAuto Immune Deficiency Syndrome VictimFA: Jim Yoder5.10cMr. CleanFA: Jim Yoder, Phil Rainwater, 1980.5.10cBlood TransfusionFA: Geoff Sherer, 19895.10dApesvilleFA: Jim Yoder & Peter Austin 19805.11Monkey LipFA: Jim Yoder & Peter Croft 19815.11Shriek of the MutilatedFA: Peter Croft, Jim Yoder 19815.12aThe FaultFA: Eric Bjornstad, Ed Cooper, 1960.5.6Bird's Nest OverhangFA: Fred Beckey, Tom Hornbein 19575.8CatapultFA: James Stuart, B.D Nelson, 19635.8Amy CarterFA: Jim Yoder, 19805.9Flying FrogFA: jim Yoder, Paul Christiansen,19805.9Idiot's DelightFA: John Rupley, Joe Heib, 1957. FFA: Eric Bjornstad,Ed Cooper, 19605.9Idiot's JourneyFA: Geoff Georges & Jessica Todd5.9The Bone5.9

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