Washington · Rock climbing · Leavenworth

Careno Crag

Careno Crag in Washington has 29 climbing routes with 14 difficulty grades, offering mixed, sport, and trad styles.

Careno CragPhoto: Buidhe, CC BY-SA 4.0 (via Wikimedia Commons)
29 routes
5.8 – 5.12a
Trad · Sport · Mixed

Is Careno Crag open right now?

Alert in the area

The Forest Service lists 6 alerts for Wenatchee River Ranger District.

As of · Source: USFS · Wenatchee River Ranger District. Agencies don't list every closure — check before you go.

Best time to visit Careno Crag

Best months: April–June and September–October. Best months have typical highs of 55–85 °F, lows of 30 °F or warmer (32 °F where the station doesn't record snow), at most one snowy day and no more than 12 wet days.

  1. Jan

    34° / 19°

    14 wet

  2. Feb

    42° / 21°

    10 wet

  3. Mar

    52° / 26°

    9 wet

  4. Apr

    61° / 32°

    7 wet

  5. May

    71° / 40°

    7 wet

  6. Jun

    77° / 46°

    5 wet

  7. Jul

    87° / 51°

    3 wet

  8. Aug

    87° / 50°

    3 wet

  9. Sep

    78° / 42°

    4 wet

  10. Oct

    62° / 33°

    9 wet

  11. Nov

    44° / 26°

    13 wet

  12. Dec

    34° / 20°

    14 wet

Typical high / low (°F) and days with rain or snow, 1991–2020. Measured at Leavenworth 3 S, WA, 1.6 mi away at 1,128 ft. The station sits about 900 ft lower than this place, so expect it a little cooler here. This station doesn't record snowfall. Source: NOAA NCEI U.S. Climate Normals 1991–2020.

Careno Crag is a climbing area in the Wenatchee River Ranger District of the Okanogan-Wenatchee National Forest in Washington, managed by the Forest Service. It sits within the Purina and Careno Area, about 0.1 mile from the Purina Crags, and the two climbing areas make a natural pairing for a day on the rock. The area has 29 routes, with trad climbing the most common style, and sport and mixed routes also represented. Grades run from 5.8 up to 5.12a, with the median around 5.10b. Among the named routes are The Parkway at 5.8, Existential Exit at 5.10a, and An Exotic Affair at 5.12a. For timing, late spring and early fall are the most comfortable. Typical averages from a nearby weather station in Leavenworth show May highs around 71°F and September highs around 78°F, while July and August average about 87°F. That station sits roughly 900 feet lower than the crag, so temperatures up high run cooler. The Snow Lakes Trail is about 0.6 mile away, and Eightmile Group Site offers camping about 2.8 miles off. Paddlers can head to Peshastin Creek, about 6 miles away.

Routes (29)

Just a GigoloFA: Geoff Georges, Jessica Todd5.10-Bromancing the StoneFA: 2016 Fletcher Taylor, Mark Webster, Brett KVO5.10+El Camino RealFA: Fletcher Taylor, Lisa Garnett, Adam Waters (2014)5.10+Cool Struttin'FA: Dave Bale, Viktor Kramar, 1995.5.10aExistential Exit5.10aExotic Dancer5.10aFree FloydFA: Tim Wilson 19845.10aHeave HoFA: dave Bale, Viktor Kramar, 19955.10aPassing LaneFA: Dave Bale, Viktor Kramar, 19955.10aPocketmeisterFA: Dave Bale, Viktor Kramar, 19955.10a/bA Swingin' Affair5.10bBale/Kramar routeFA: Dave Bale, Viktor Kramar, 19955.10bCondo CornerFA: Dave Bale, Viktor Kramar5.10bRegular Route5.10bSuper Freaky5.10bKiller B's5.10cWraptorFA: Gibbons, Behle5.11PumplineFA: Jim Yoder, 19845.11aSkyfallFA: Fletcher Taylor, Lisa Garnett, Craig Bartlett, Vladimir Bobov 20145.11aGiant StepsFA: Armond Debuque, Dave Bale 19955.11bMJB AreteFA: Jim Yoder, Matt Kerns and Bob Crawford5.11bNubbin Grubbin'FA: Dave Bale, Viktor Kramar 19955.11bCorino CornerFA: Gibbons, Behle5.11cAn Exotic AffairFA: Jens Holsten5.12aThe ParkwayFA: Fletcher Taylor, Mark Webster, Brett KVO - 20165.8Roger's TowerFA: Roger Johnson, Mark Schneider, 19645.8+Careno Corners5.9Finders Keepers5.9Left Wing5.9

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