Utah · Rock climbing · Moab

Kane Springs Canyon

Near Moab

Kane Springs CanyonPhoto: Sandy Horvath-Dori from Grand Junction, CO, USA, CC BY 2.0 (via Wikimedia Commons)
60 routes
5.3 – 5.13
Trad · Bouldering · Mixed

Best time to visit Kane Springs Canyon

Best months: March–May and October–November. Best months have typical highs of 55–85 °F, lows of 30 °F or warmer (32 °F where the station doesn't record snow), at most one snowy day and no more than 12 wet days.

  1. Jan

    44° / 21°

    6 wet · 1 snow

  2. Feb

    52° / 27°

    6 wet · 1 snow

  3. Mar

    65° / 36°

    6 wet

  4. Apr

    72° / 43°

    5 wet

  5. May

    83° / 51°

    5 wet

  6. Jun

    94° / 59°

    3 wet

  7. Jul

    99° / 66°

    5 wet

  8. Aug

    96° / 64°

    6 wet

  9. Sep

    88° / 55°

    6 wet

  10. Oct

    74° / 42°

    5 wet

  11. Nov

    57° / 30°

    5 wet

  12. Dec

    44° / 22°

    5 wet · 2 snow

Typical high / low (°F) and days with rain or snow, 1991–2020. Measured at Moab, UT, 5.7 mi away at 4,053 ft. Source: NOAA NCEI U.S. Climate Normals 1991–2020.

Kane Springs Canyon is a climbing area in Utah on Bureau of Land Management land within the Moab Field Office. It sits among a cluster of climbing, hiking and camping spots, with Kane Creek Road and Hunter Canyon Group Site each about half a mile away. The canyon holds about 60 routes, mostly trad with a few boulders and mixed climbs. Grades run from 5.3 up to 5.13, and the hardest of the boulders is V4-5. Some of the named routes include All Along the Putt-Tower at 5.3, Itchy and Scratchy at 5.10b and Ringlock Ranch at 5.13. Spring and fall are the most comfortable times to visit. Typical averages from a nearby weather station in Moab show April highs around 72°F and October highs around 74°F, while July averages near 99°F. Nearby options include the Ice Cream Parlor climbing area, the Hunter Canyon Trail and the Hunter Canyon climbing area, all within a mile. The Ledge Group Sites campground is about 1.7 miles away.

Routes (60)

Cam Burns Area(1)

Cam Burns Spire5.9

Crusty the Clown(1)

Itchy and Scratchy5.10b

EB's Love Muscle(1)

Putterman Sex Machine5.5

Fickle Finger of Fate(1)

Moonwalker5.9

Happy Turk Hoodoo(1)

The Happy Turk5.8

Homer and Marge(1)

Chili Cook Off5.5

Jackson Hole(1)

Moonlight Spire5.9

Kyle's Tower(1)

1950 DA5.10

Moonflower Canyon(1)

Unknown5.10-

Mt. Everest(1)

Kangshung Face5.8

Point 5,448(1)

Table Scraps5.10

Predator Tower(1)

Reign of Terror5.11a

Snail Tower(1)

Love Darts5.8

Snapparama, The(1)

North sideEasy 5th

Keep exploring — more climbs worth the drive

Ice Cream ParlorPhoto: katsrcool, CC BY 2.0 (via Wikimedia Commons)

Ice Cream Parlor

~1 min drive

Ice Cream Parlor in Utah has 41 climbing routes across 25 difficulty grades in mixed, sport, and trad styles.

Hunter CanyonPhoto: Sandy Horvath-Dori from Grand Junction, CO, USA, CC BY 2.0 (via Wikimedia Commons)

Hunter Canyon

~1 min drive

5 climbing routes at Hunter Canyon, Utah, ranging across 4 difficulty grades.

Scorched Earth CragPhoto: Sandy Horvath-Dori from Grand Junction, CO, USA, CC BY 2.0 (via Wikimedia Commons)

Scorched Earth Crag

~2 min drive

Scorched Earth Crag in Utah offers 6 mixed and traditional climbing routes across 6 difficulty grades.

Abraxas WallPhoto: Sandy Horvath-Dori from Grand Junction, CO, USA, CC BY 2.0 (via Wikimedia Commons)

Abraxas Wall

~3 min drive

Abraxas Wall in Utah has 11 climbing routes across 8 grades, offering sport and trad options.

The Cirque of the ClimbablesPhoto: Sandy Horvath-Dori from Grand Junction, CO, USA, CC BY 2.0 (via Wikimedia Commons)

The Cirque of the Climbables

~3 min drive

Cirque of the Climbables in Utah has 6 routes with mixed and traditional climbing.

Ledge C BouldersPhoto: katsrcool, CC BY 2.0 (via Wikimedia Commons)

Ledge C Boulders

~3 min drive

Ledge C Boulders in Utah has 6 bouldering routes across 4 grades.

Big BrainPhoto: katsrcool, CC BY 2.0 (via Wikimedia Commons)

Big Brain

~3 min drive

Big Brain is a bouldering crag in Utah with 6 routes and 6 difficulty grades.

Wall StreetPhoto: The Dye Clan, CC BY-SA 3.0 (via Wikimedia Commons)

Wall Street

~5 min drive

Wall Street in Utah has 135 climbing routes across 35 grades, offering mixed, sport, and trad styles.

Middle EarthPhoto: logopop, CC BY-SA 3.0 (via Wikimedia Commons)

Middle Earth

~7 min drive

Middle Earth in Utah has 6 routes across 6 grades, offering sport and trad climbing.

Shady CragPhoto: logopop, CC BY-SA 3.0 (via Wikimedia Commons)

Shady Crag

~7 min drive

Shady Crag in Utah has 11 trad routes across 7 difficulty grades.