Utah · Rock climbing · Moab

Middle Earth

Middle Earth in Utah has 6 routes across 6 grades, offering sport and trad climbing.

Middle EarthPhoto: logopop, CC BY-SA 3.0 (via Wikimedia Commons)
6 routes
5.9 – 5.11+
Trad · Sport

Best time to visit Middle Earth

Best months: March–May and October–November. Best months have typical highs of 55–85 °F, lows of 30 °F or warmer (32 °F where the station doesn't record snow), at most one snowy day and no more than 12 wet days.

  1. Jan

    42° / 22°

    4 wet

  2. Feb

    50° / 29°

    4 wet

  3. Mar

    62° / 37°

    5 wet

  4. Apr

    70° / 44°

    5 wet

  5. May

    80° / 53°

    5 wet

  6. Jun

    93° / 63°

    3 wet

  7. Jul

    99° / 70°

    5 wet

  8. Aug

    96° / 68°

    6 wet

  9. Sep

    87° / 58°

    5 wet

  10. Oct

    72° / 44°

    5 wet

  11. Nov

    56° / 33°

    4 wet

  12. Dec

    42° / 24°

    4 wet

Typical high / low (°F) and days with rain or snow, 1991–2020. Measured at Arches Np Hqs, UT, 4.2 mi away at 4,093 ft. This station doesn't record snowfall. Source: NOAA NCEI U.S. Climate Normals 1991–2020.

Middle Earth is a climbing area on Bureau of Land Management land in the Moab Field Office in Utah, about 1.5 miles from the Potash Road climbing area and roughly 1.2 miles from the Rockstacker Trail. The closest town is Moab. Spring and fall are the most comfortable times to visit. Typical averages from a nearby weather station run from highs around 70°F in April to about 72°F in October, while July highs average near 99°F and January lows drop to about 22°F. The area has six routes, five of which are trad and one is sport. Grades range from 5.9 to 5.11+. Juicy Tower is the sport route at 5.10. Trad climbers can try Where Egos Dare at 5.10+ or Taste of Venom at 5.11.

Routes (6)

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