Oregon · Rock climbing · Stevenson · Near Mount Hood Villages

South Face

62 routes
5.6 – 5.13a
Trad · Sport
Jun–Sep
best months

Is South Face open right now?

Alert in the area

The Forest Service lists an alert for Columbia River Gorge National Scenic Area.

As of · Source: USFS · Columbia River Gorge National Scenic Area. Agencies don't list every closure — check before you go.

South Face is a climbing area in Oregon's Beacon Rock State Park, within the Columbia River Gorge National Scenic Area. The land is managed by State Park and Recreation, and the area sits among several other climbing spots, including the West Face and North Forest Boulders, both about 0.1 mile away. The climbing here is mostly traditional, with 57 trad routes and five sport routes among the 62 listed. Grades run from 5.6 up to 5.13a, with the median around 5.10. Some of the named routes include Boardwalk at 5.6, Rock Police at 5.10d and Wild Turkeys at 5.13a. Summer is the most comfortable time to climb. Typical averages from the nearby Bonneville Dam weather station show July and August highs around 79 to 80°F with only four or five wet days a month, while winter brings highs in the low 40s and rain on most days. The Beacon Rock Trail and River to Rock Trail both start about 0.2 mile away. For paddling, Hamilton Creek is about 3.7 miles off, and Eagle Creek Overlook campground is about 4.4 miles away.

Around this trail

Add any of these when you start a trip
  • Sleep close

    Beacon Rock Moorage Camp

    Campground

    Campground · 0.4 mi from the trail
  • Eat after

    Trailhead Taproom & Outdoor Store

    Bar

    On your way back · 2 mi · Open after 6
  • If it rainsIan Poellet, CC BY-SA 4.0 · Wikimedia Commons

    Harlow House Museum

    Museum

    Museum · 19 mi from Mount Hood Villages

Places © OpenStreetMap contributors · Photos: Ian Poellet, CC BY-SA 4.0 (commons)

More in Mount Hood Villages
  • Best time to go · Jun–Sep

    Best time to visit South Face

    Best months: June–September. Best months have typical highs of 55–85 °F, lows of 30 °F or warmer (32 °F where the station doesn't record snow), at most one snowy day and no more than 12 wet days.

    1. Jan

      43° / 34°

      21 wet · 2 snow

    2. Feb

      47° / 36°

      18 wet · 1 snow

    3. Mar

      53° / 38°

      20 wet

    4. Apr

      59° / 42°

      18 wet

    5. May

      67° / 48°

      15 wet

    6. Jun

      72° / 52°

      11 wet

    7. Jul

      79° / 57°

      5 wet

    8. Aug

      80° / 57°

      4 wet

    9. Sep

      74° / 53°

      8 wet

    10. Oct

      62° / 47°

      15 wet

    11. Nov

      50° / 40°

      20 wet

    12. Dec

      42° / 35°

      22 wet · 1 snow

    Typical high / low (°F) and days with rain or snow, 1991–2020. Measured at Bonneville Dam, OR, 3.3 mi away at 62 ft. Source: NOAA NCEI U.S. Climate Normals 1991–2020.

Routes (62)

Bluebird5.10SeagullFA: Robert McGown, Jeff Thomas, 19775.10Tennessee WalkerFA: Avery Tichner, Marlene Ford, John Haek, 19835.10The 3rd RailFA: Joseph Healy5.10CouchmasterFA: Bill Coe, Gary Rall, Jim Opdycke5.10-Spring FeverFA: Scott Tracy, Jim Opdycke, Spring 19865.10-Sufficiently BreathlessFA: Scott Woolums, Terry Yates, Robert McGown, Summer 19775.10-Free For All, Direct5.10aStardustFA: Scott Tracy, Jim Opdyke5.10aCrazy Horse5.10bFear of FlyingFA: 1985 Robert McGown, Guigi Regis5.10bFlying DutchmanFA: GFA 1985 - Bill Coe, Jim Opdycke, Bob McMahon5.10bRookie Nookie5.10bWindsurferFA: Bob McGowen5.10bWinter DelightFA: Ron Allen, 19875.10bBlownoutFA: Jeff Thomas and Ken Currens, 19765.10b/cDod's Jam + Dastardly Crack LinkupFA: Buncha different folks in different years5.10cRise UpFA: Mark Deffenbaugh, Kevin Rauch, Glen Hartman Fall 20035.10cBlood, Sweat, and SmearsFA: Jeff Thomas and Robert McGown, 19775.10dFlying SwallowFA: Jeff Thomas, Del Young (1976)5.10dIcy TreatsFA: Jeff Thomas, Charles Arnett, and Eric Freden (winter 1986--1987)5.10dRock PoliceFA: W. Wallace, R.McGown 09.11.19895.10dAging FruitsFA: Avery Tichner, Summer 19855.11-Bladerunner5.11-Fall GuyFA: Ron Allen, Scott Tracy, Fall 19905.11-Jensen's Ridge5.11-Lost WarriorsFA: Joseph Healy, Bill Coe, Karsten Duncan, et.al. FFA-Joseph Healy, Karsten Duncan5.11+Free for Some5.11aBorderlineFA: Tim Olson5.11bPipeline5.11bBears in HeatFA: Summer 1985 Mark Cartier and Darryl Nakahira5.11b/cFlight TimeFA: FFA Aug. 1st, 1981, Jeff Thomas, Mark Cartier5.11cFresh SqueezeFA: N. Charleton5.11c/dRockmasterFA: 1985 Bill Coe, Gini Hornbecker, Jim Opdycke. FFA Mark Cartier and Daryl5.11dWindwalkerFA: Mark Deffenbaugh,Kevin Rauch, Meaghan Woodruff, Glen Hartman Fall 20035.11dGround ZeroFA: Jim Opdycke, Bill Coe FFA P1 and 2, Bill Coe, Frank Cornelius, P2 and 3 Mark Cartier and Darryl Nakahira5.12The Dirty DoubleFA: FFA: Odin Grano w/ Danielle Hughes august, 1, 2020 FA: Alan Kearney, Les Nugent 745.12+ExcaliburFA: Tim Olson, Wayne Wallace. July 1990.5.12bOld Warriors Never DieFA: Jim Yoder 19905.12bStone RodeoFA: FA 1987 Wayne Wallace & Robert McGown FFA June 1987 McGown & Dan Wright (Prior FFA? Joe Healy & Tangen Foster)5.12bThe NorsemanFA: Mark Cartier5.12bThe Beekeeper's ApprenticeFA: FFA Matt Spohn, with Alex Parker and Tim Bemrich. FA of Smooth Dancer pitch Alan Kearney, Les Nugent, Malcolm Ulrich 19745.12cWhit's WallFA: FFA Matt Spohn with Andrew Traylor; 1st Pitch (Rhythm Method) Bill Coe with Jim Opdyke; 2nd Pitch Joe Healy5.12c/dSky Fishermen (free variation of Grunge Book)FA: FFA Matt Spohn August 25, 2013 (FA Grunge Book Waynne Haack and Steve Strauch)5.13aThe Pink PantherFA: Odin Grano. Aug.8.2020.5.13aWild TurkeysFA: FA 1970 Brian Holcomb, Neal Olson Glen, Kirkpatrick FFA July 27 2013 Matt Spohn5.13aBoardwalkFA: Bill Coe and Bill Dykstra June 19855.6Dod's Jam P1FA: Dod, Martin, Levin '615.7Rhythm MethodFA: 1985 Bill Coe & friends5.7South East CornerFA: John Orenshall, Gene Todd 19545.7UprisingFA: Jim Opdyke (and who else?)5.7Cruisin'FA: Sept 1985 Dennis Hemminger, Bill Coe, Jim Opdycke5.8Free for All5.8Left GullFA: Dean Caldwell, Chuck Erwin, 19655.8Little WingFA: 1985 Jim Opdycke, Robert McGown, Mark Cartier5.8Cloud NineFA: 10.24.87 Wayne Wallace & Tim Olson5.9Jill's ThrillFA: FA '85 McGown, Opdycke, Jill Green5.9Local Access OnlyFA: 09-1989 Nathan Charleton, Eric Freden, Jim Opdyke5.9Reasonable RichardFA: 1989 - Tim Olson, Neal Olsen, Jim Davis5.9Right GullFA: FA '65 Dean Caldwell, Chuck Brown FFA '72 Dean Fry5.9Young Warriors5.9Blownout DirectFA: Scott Tracy, Jim Opdycke, Fall 19905.9+

Keep exploring — more climbs worth the drive

Beacon Rock BoulderingPhoto: Kingofthedead, CC BY-SA 4.0 (via Wikimedia Commons)

Beacon Rock Bouldering

Next door

Solid bouldering in Oregon's Columbia River Gorge with scenic river views.

North Forest BouldersPhoto: Kingofthedead, CC BY-SA 4.0 (via Wikimedia Commons)

North Forest Boulders

Next door

North Forest Boulders in Oregon has 12 bouldering routes across 7 grades.

CLIMB

West Face

Next door

West Face in Oregon has 26 climbing routes across 14 grades, offering sport and trad styles.

CLIMB

Northwest Face

Next door

Northwest Face in Oregon has 19 climbing routes with mixed and traditional styles.

CLIMB

Columbia Pearl

Next door

Columbia Pearl is a 5-route bouldering crag in Oregon with routes ranging across 3 difficulty grades.

CLIMB

Lower (Main) Area

~2 min drive

Lower (Main) Area is a Washington climbing crag with 14 routes.

CLIMB

Upper Bowl

~2 min drive

Upper Bowl is a Washington climbing area with 7 bouldering routes on rock with 3 difficulty grades.

CLIMB

AlpenGlow (aka Upper Kueffler Road Boulders)

~7 min drive

AlpenGlow (Upper Kueffler Road Boulders) in Washington has 12 bouldering routes with 8 distinct difficulty grades.

CLIMB

Bridge of the Gods Boulders

~9 min drive

Bridge of the Gods Boulders is a bouldering area in Washington with 1 route.

CLIMB

The Dome

~10 min drive

Dome, The in Washington has 10 climbing routes with 7 difficulty grades.