The Cool Wall
- 14 routes
- 5.9 – 5.11+
- Trad
- Apr–Jun, Sep–Oct
- best months
The Cool Wall is a climbing area in Oregon, about 2 miles from the town of Gateway. It sits among a cluster of climbing and hiking routes, with The Main Wall and The Northern End both within half a mile, and the South Main Wall Trail and Cool Wall Trail just a few tenths of a mile away. The area is a traditional climbing destination. Of its 14 routes, all are trad, and they range from 5.9 to 5.11+. The hardest of them, The Gambler, is a 5.11+ that Pat McCarthy and Phillip Hranicka first climbed. Merle Kicks Ass, a 5.10, was first climbed by Dave McRae, Pat McCarthy and Jeff Wenger. Summer is the most comfortable time to visit. Typical averages from a nearby weather station in Madras show July highs around 87°F with lows near 50°F and only about three wet days in the month. Winter is much colder, with January highs in the low 40s and a few snowy days. Trout Creek Campground, about 1.5 miles away, is the closest place to camp. The Trout Creek Trail lies roughly 4.6 miles off.
Best time to go · Apr–Jun, Sep–Oct
Best time to visit The Cool Wall
Best months: April–June and September–October. Best months have typical highs of 55–85 °F, lows of 30 °F or warmer (32 °F where the station doesn't record snow), at most one snowy day and no more than 12 wet days.
Jan
43° / 24°
10 wet · 3 snow
Feb
46° / 25°
8 wet · 1 snow
Mar
54° / 28°
8 wet · 1 snow
Apr
61° / 31°
8 wet
May
69° / 39°
8 wet
Jun
77° / 44°
5 wet
Jul
87° / 50°
3 wet
Aug
86° / 50°
2 wet
Sep
78° / 43°
3 wet
Oct
63° / 35°
6 wet
Nov
49° / 28°
8 wet · 1 snow
Dec
41° / 23°
10 wet · 2 snow
Typical high / low (°F) and days with rain or snow, 1991–2020. Measured at Madras 2 N, OR, 9.4 mi away at 2,443 ft. Source: NOAA NCEI U.S. Climate Normals 1991–2020.
Routes (14)
Keep exploring — more climbs worth the drive
Photo: Robert Ashworth from Bellingham, WA., USA, CC BY 2.0 (via Wikimedia Commons)(6) Puddy's Tower
~50 min drive
Puddy's Tower in Oregon has 11 sport climbing routes on 8 difficulty grades.
Photo: Robert Ashworth from Bellingham, WA., USA, CC BY 2.0 (via Wikimedia Commons)Cornerstone Buttress
~50 min drive
Cornerstone Buttress in Oregon has 6 sport climbing routes across 5 difficulty grades.
Photo: Bonnie Moreland from Oregon, United States, CC0 (via Wikimedia Commons)(5) Little Three Finger Jack AKA The Alex Reed Memorial Wall
~50 min drive
Little Three Finger Jack AKA The Alex Reed Memorial Wall in Oregon has 11 sport routes.
Photo: Robert Ashworth from Bellingham, WA., USA, CC BY 2.0 (via Wikimedia Commons)(4) Big Ben Tower
~50 min drive
Big Ben Tower in Oregon has 12 climbing routes spanning 7 grades, offering sport and trad climbing.
Photo: Robert Ashworth from Bellingham, WA., USA, CC BY 2.0 (via Wikimedia Commons)The Hank Collins Memorial Wall
~50 min drive
Hank Collins Memorial Wall, The is a sport climbing area in Oregon with 13 routes.
Photo: Robert Ashworth from Bellingham, WA., USA, CC BY 2.0 (via Wikimedia Commons)(vv)Staender Ridge
~50 min drive
Staender Ridge in Oregon has 6 routes spanning 4 grades, offering sport and trad climbing.
Photo: Robert Ashworth from Bellingham, WA., USA, CC BY 2.0 (via Wikimedia Commons)Left Side
~50 min drive
Left Side in Oregon has 24 routes across 14 grades, offering mixed, sport, and trad climbing.
Photo: Robert Ashworth from Bellingham, WA., USA, CC BY 2.0 (via Wikimedia Commons)(v) Monument Area
~50 min drive
Monument Area in Oregon has 3 sport climbing routes spanning 3 difficulty grades.
Photo: Jordan Beard, CC BY-SA 4.0 (via Wikimedia Commons)(t) Kiss of the Lepers Buttress
~50 min drive
Kiss of the Lepers Buttress in Oregon has 5 climbing routes on 5 difficulty grades.
Photo: Robert Ashworth from Bellingham, WA., USA, CC BY 2.0 (via Wikimedia Commons)Reproductive Wall
~50 min drive
Reproductive Wall in Oregon has 19 climbing routes across 16 grades, offering sport and trad styles.
Also worth it near here
