New York · Rock climbing · North River

Main Cliff

39 routes
5.3 – 5.11c
Trad · Sport · Mixed

Main Cliff is a climbing area in the Siamese Ponds Wilderness of New York, managed by the State Department of Conservation. It sits among a cluster of other climbing spots, with Nugget Knob and Shanty Cliff each about 0.1 mile away and Shanty Sports Arena about 0.2 mile off. That makes it easy to pair with other climbs in the same corner of the wilderness. The area has 39 routes, with trad, sport and mixed styles all represented. The YDS grades run from 5.3 up to 5.11c, so there is something for climbers of all levels. Some of the named routes include Sleepwalk (5.3, trad), Little Gem Diner (5.6, mixed) and Hard Times (5.11c, sport). Summer is the most comfortable time to climb. Typical averages from a nearby weather station show July highs around 75°F with lows near 54°F, while winter highs stay in the 20s. For a change from the rock, the Oregon Trail and Little Joe Pond trail are both within about 1.5 miles. Paddlers can reach the Sacandaga River, roughly 8 miles away.

  • Best time to go

    Best time to visit Main Cliff

    No month here meets our mild-weather rule. Best months have typical highs of 55–85 °F, lows of 30 °F or warmer (32 °F where the station doesn't record snow), at most one snowy day and no more than 12 wet days.

    1. Jan

      25° / 6°

      17 wet

    2. Feb

      28° / 7°

      14 wet

    3. Mar

      36° / 15°

      14 wet

    4. Apr

      49° / 28°

      14 wet

    5. May

      63° / 40°

      16 wet

    6. Jun

      71° / 49°

      15 wet

    7. Jul

      75° / 54°

      15 wet

    8. Aug

      73° / 53°

      13 wet

    9. Sep

      67° / 45°

      13 wet

    10. Oct

      54° / 35°

      16 wet

    11. Nov

      41° / 25°

      16 wet

    12. Dec

      31° / 14°

      17 wet

    Typical high / low (°F) and days with rain or snow, 1991–2020. Measured at Indian Lake 2sw, NY, 16.3 mi away at 1,670 ft. This station doesn't record snowfall. Source: NOAA NCEI U.S. Climate Normals 1991–2020.

Routes (39)

Railroad Dickie5.10aSlumlord5.10aSoup KitchenFA: The Shanty Team5.10aRocinhaFA: Sept 22, 2007, Jonathan Nickel5.10b/cFavela5.10cRailroad Donnie5.10c/dHoovervilleFA: FA Arietta Climbing 20075.10dBreadlineFA: The Shanty Team5.11aGravy TrainFA: FFA Peter Whitmore5.11aHard Times5.11cSleepwalkFA: Jim Vermeulen5.3Bo Peep5.4Circuitous Shit5.4Blue Toes5.5Bogus Dent5.5Easy StreetFA: FFA: Joyellen Trezise & Tim Trezise. September 20175.5ShantyclearFA: 1999?5.5ButterscotchFA: 9/19/20205.6Little Gem DinerFA: June 1987, Jim Vermeulen, Bill Morris5.6Pug LoveFA: The Shanty Team, 20075.6Shanty Girl5.6Son of Circuitous ShitFA: Jay Harrison, Dick Tucker5.6Vernal ImperativesFA: October 1994, Jim Vermeulen, Bill Morris5.6Climber's Yodel5.7Flying FriendsFA: May 1988, Stuart Williams, Eric Dahn, Jim Vermeulen5.7Grips of Wrath5.7Mean Low BluesFA: The Shanty Team, 20075.7River ViewFA: December, 1982 Dick Turner, Lois Legg5.7Time TrialsFA: 20075.7Shaky Flake & (V1 - Flake it again!)FA: V1 FFA: Tyler Harju & Tim Trezise. August 20175.7+GhettoFA: FFA Tim Trezise & Don Grigorinko, July 20185.8Life and DebtFA: 2007, The Shanty Team5.8Shitty Shit Shovel5.8SowetoFA: Lawyer, Williams, Dahn 19895.8Grandson of Circuitous ShitFA: Justin Serpico5.8-PobrecitoFA: FFA Tim Trezise, July 20185.8+The ShackFA: FFA Tim Trezise & Kate Trezise, September 20175.8+Gunky RouteFA: Late 1990s5.9Shantytown5.9+

Keep exploring — more climbs worth the drive