Sugarloaf East Wall
Sugarloaf East Wall in New Mexico has 5 climbing routes with alpine no fixed protection.
- 5 routes
- 5.9 – 5.12
- Alpine
Sugarloaf East Wall is a climbing area in the Organ Mountains Wilderness of southern New Mexico, within the Bureau of Land Management's Las Cruces District Office. It sits among several named climbing spots in this stretch of BLM land, including Sugarloaf and East Slabs, and it makes a natural anchor for a day of alpine-style rock in the wilderness. The area holds five routes, all rated between 5.9 and 5.12 on the YDS scale and classified as alpine. Among them are "Nature loves courage" (5.9) and "Eros And The Eschaton" (5.12), along with "Culture is not your friend" (5.11), which was first climbed by Dan Honeyman. The climbing is alpine in style, and the routes sit close together, with Sugarloaf and Sugarloaf's Stepchild each about 0.1 mile away and East Slabs about 0.2 mile off. For a longer stay, Aguirre Spring Recreation Area and Campground lies about 1.5 miles away. Hikers can reach Organ Peak Trail or the Organ Needle Trail within about 1.6 miles.
Keep exploring — more climbs worth the drive
Photo: uıɐɾ ʞ ʇɐɯɐs, CC BY-SA 2.0 (via Flickr)Organ Needle
~2 min drive
Organ Needle in New Mexico has 5 climbing routes.
Photo: uıɐɾ ʞ ʇɐɯɐs, CC BY-SA 2.0 (via Flickr)Needle and Squaretops
~2 min drive
Needle and Squaretops in New Mexico has 12 climbing routes.
Photo: uıɐɾ ʞ ʇɐɯɐs, CC BY-SA 2.0 (via Flickr)Little Squaretop Massif
~2 min drive
Little Squaretop Massif in New Mexico has 7 traditional climbing routes across 4 grades.
Photo: Patrick Alexander from Las Cruces, NM, CC0 (via Wikimedia Commons)Cap-Rock Boulder
~2 min drive
Cap-Rock Boulder in New Mexico has 6 bouldering routes across 5 grades.
Photo: Patrick Alexander from Las Cruces, NM, CC0 (via Wikimedia Commons)South Organs
~2 min drive
South Organs in New Mexico has 1 sport climbing route rated 5.10b-5.10c.
Photo: Patrick Alexander from Las Cruces, NM, CC0 (via Wikimedia Commons)Long Canyon
~2 min drive
Long Canyon in New Mexico has 8 bouldering routes across 7 grades.
Photo: uıɐɾ ʞ ʇɐɯɐs, CC BY-SA 2.0 (via Flickr)Cactararium
~3 min drive
Cactararium is a New Mexico climbing area with 9 routes.
Photo: uıɐɾ ʞ ʇɐɯɐs, CC BY-SA 2.0 (via Flickr)The Tooth
~3 min drive
Tooth, The in New Mexico has 8 climbing routes across 7 grades, offering sport and trad options.
Photo: Patrick Alexander from Las Cruces, NM, CC0 (via Wikimedia Commons)The High Horns
~3 min drive
Versatile New Mexico crag with climbing for multiple skill levels.
Photo: uıɐɾ ʞ ʇɐɯɐs, CC BY-SA 2.0 (via Flickr)The Low Horns
~4 min drive
Low Horns, The in New Mexico has 18 climbing routes with mixed and trad options.
