New Mexico · Rock climbing · Las Cruces

Sugarloaf

13 traditional climbing routes in New Mexico spanning 7 difficulty grades.

13 routes
5.6 – 5.11+
Trad

Sugarloaf is a climbing area in the Organ Mountains Wilderness of southern New Mexico, on land managed by the Bureau of Land Management's Las Cruces District Office. It sits within designated wilderness, and the surrounding area is a cluster of climbing spots, with Sugarloaf's Stepchild and Sugarloaf East Wall each about 0.1 mile away. The area has 13 trad routes, with grades ranging from 5.6 to 5.11+. The easiest is Left Eyebrow to North Face at 5.6, and the hardest is Crescendo at 5.11+, first climbed by Matt Twyman and Adam Mitchell. Flea Tree and Banana Peel are also among the more straightforward options, at 5.7 and 5.8. Nearby, East Slabs is about 0.3 mile away, and Organ Needle is about a mile off. For time on foot, the Organ Peak Trail and the Organ Needle Trail are both within about 1.6 miles, and Aguirre Spring Recreation Area and Campground is about 1.5 miles away.

Keep exploring — more climbs worth the drive

Organ NeedlePhoto: uıɐɾ ʞ ʇɐɯɐs, CC BY-SA 2.0 (via Flickr)

Organ Needle

~2 min drive

Organ Needle in New Mexico has 5 climbing routes.

Needle and SquaretopsPhoto: uıɐɾ ʞ ʇɐɯɐs, CC BY-SA 2.0 (via Flickr)

Needle and Squaretops

~2 min drive

Needle and Squaretops in New Mexico has 12 climbing routes.

Little Squaretop MassifPhoto: uıɐɾ ʞ ʇɐɯɐs, CC BY-SA 2.0 (via Flickr)

Little Squaretop Massif

~2 min drive

Little Squaretop Massif in New Mexico has 7 traditional climbing routes across 4 grades.

Cap-Rock BoulderPhoto: Patrick Alexander from Las Cruces, NM, CC0 (via Wikimedia Commons)

Cap-Rock Boulder

~2 min drive

Cap-Rock Boulder in New Mexico has 6 bouldering routes across 5 grades.

South OrgansPhoto: Patrick Alexander from Las Cruces, NM, CC0 (via Wikimedia Commons)

South Organs

~2 min drive

South Organs in New Mexico has 1 sport climbing route rated 5.10b-5.10c.

Long CanyonPhoto: Patrick Alexander from Las Cruces, NM, CC0 (via Wikimedia Commons)

Long Canyon

~2 min drive

Long Canyon in New Mexico has 8 bouldering routes across 7 grades.

CactarariumPhoto: uıɐɾ ʞ ʇɐɯɐs, CC BY-SA 2.0 (via Flickr)

Cactararium

~3 min drive

Cactararium is a New Mexico climbing area with 9 routes.

The ToothPhoto: uıɐɾ ʞ ʇɐɯɐs, CC BY-SA 2.0 (via Flickr)

The Tooth

~3 min drive

Tooth, The in New Mexico has 8 climbing routes across 7 grades, offering sport and trad options.

The High HornsPhoto: Patrick Alexander from Las Cruces, NM, CC0 (via Wikimedia Commons)

The High Horns

~3 min drive

Versatile New Mexico crag with climbing for multiple skill levels.

The Low HornsPhoto: uıɐɾ ʞ ʇɐɯɐs, CC BY-SA 2.0 (via Flickr)

The Low Horns

~4 min drive

Low Horns, The in New Mexico has 18 climbing routes with mixed and trad options.