Kentucky · Rock climbing · Rogers

Sunbeam Buttress

17 climbing routes in Kentucky spanning 12 difficulty grades, sport and trad.

17 routes
5.1 – 5.12a
Sport · Trad

Best time to visit Sunbeam Buttress

Best months: August–November. Best months have typical highs of 55–85 °F, lows of 30 °F or warmer (32 °F where the station doesn't record snow), at most one snowy day and no more than 12 wet days.

  1. Jan

    42° / 24°

    13 wet

  2. Feb

    47° / 27°

    13 wet

  3. Mar

    57° / 34°

    15 wet

  4. Apr

    68° / 44°

    15 wet

  5. May

    75° / 53°

    15 wet

  6. Jun

    82° / 61°

    14 wet

  7. Jul

    84° / 65°

    14 wet

  8. Aug

    84° / 64°

    12 wet

  9. Sep

    79° / 57°

    10 wet

  10. Oct

    69° / 44°

    12 wet

  11. Nov

    57° / 35°

    12 wet

  12. Dec

    46° / 28°

    13 wet

Typical high / low (°F) and days with rain or snow, 1991–2020. Measured at Beattyville 4n, KY, 8.2 mi away at 1,080 ft. This station doesn't record snowfall. Source: NOAA NCEI U.S. Climate Normals 1991–2020.

Sunbeam Buttress is a climbing area inside Muir Valley Nature Preserve in Kentucky, managed by a non-governmental organization. The preserve holds several climbing areas within a short distance, and Sunbeam Buttress sits among them. The climbing here leans toward sport routes, with 12 sport routes and 5 traditional routes among the 17 listed. The grade range runs from 5.1 to 5.12, with the median at 5.10c. Some of the named routes include Mossy Mayhem (5.1 trad), Universal Gravitation (5.10d sport) and Directed Panspermia (5.12 sport). September and October tend to be the most comfortable months for a visit, with typical highs around 79°F and 69°F and lows in the mid-40s. These are typical averages from a nearby weather station at Beattyville, which sits at a similar elevation. The Great Arch, The Solarium and Shawnee Shelter all lie about 0.1 mile away. Cliff Trail #206 is roughly 3.3 miles off.

Routes (17)

Mossy MayhemFA: Jared Hancock,20055.1Primordial DissonanceFA: Jared Hancock5.10Revenge of the SithFA: Tom Kwasny5.10MoonshineFA: Jared Hancock, J.J., Bram Bell 20055.10aOut of the DarkFA: Jared Hancock, J.J., 20055.10cSunbeamFA: J.J., Jared Hancock, Bram Bell 20055.10cUniversal GravitationFA: J.J, Barry Brolley, 20055.10dRadical EvolutionFA: J.J. Jones5.11aMorning SunFA: J.J., Jared Handcock 20055.11bPredatorFA: Jared Hancock, JJ, Karla Carandang - 20055.11bPreyFA: Jared Hancock5.11bDirected PanspermiaFA: Jared Hancock5.12Stems and SeedsFA: Jared Hancock, J.J. - 20055.12aTrekker of the TreacherousFA: Jared Hancock, 20055.4BackstabberFA: J. J., Karla Carandang, Jared Hancock, 20055.9Three AmigosFA: Tim Powers, Tom Kwasny, Mike Susko, 20055.9+Where's My ChiselFA: Rizzo, 20055.9+