Arizona · Rock climbing · Cochise · Near Whetstone

The Sheepshead

22 routes
5.8 – 5.11a
Trad · Sport
Aug–May
best months

Is Sheepshead, The open right now?

Alert in the area

The Forest Service lists 3 alerts for Coronado National Forest.

As of · Source: USFS · Coronado National Forest. Agencies don't list every closure — check before you go.

The Sheepshead is a climbing area in the Douglas Ranger District of Coronado National Forest in Arizona, managed by the Forest Service. It sits among a cluster of other climbing spots, with Carnivore Pinnacle & Lappy McDome and The Muttonhead both about 0.1 mile away. The area has 22 routes, with 15 in trad and 7 in sport. The YDS grades run from 5.8- up to 5.11, with the median at 5.10-. Among the named routes are Greedy Little Varmint (5.8-), Ides of Middlemarch (5.10a), and Mad Cow Disease (5.11). Spring and fall are the most comfortable times to go. Typical averages from a nearby weather station in Bisbee show April highs around 73°F and October highs around 75°F, while July and August bring the most wet days, about 12 each month. That station sits roughly 800 feet lower than the Sheepshead, so temperatures at the climbing area run cooler.

Around this trail

Add any of these when you start a trip
  • Sleep close

    Cochise Stronghold

    Campground

    Campground · 3.9 mi from the trail
  • Eat after

    Wendy's

    Fast food

    Open after 6
  • If it rains

    O.K. Corral

    Museum

    Museum · 12 mi from Whetstone

    Livery and horse corral in Tombstone, Arizona (1879-1888)

Places © OpenStreetMap contributors

More in Whetstone
  • Best time to go · Aug–May

    Best time to visit The Sheepshead

    Best months: August–May. Best months have typical highs of 55–85 °F, lows of 30 °F or warmer (32 °F where the station doesn't record snow), at most one snowy day and no more than 12 wet days.

    1. Jan

      56° / 32°

      4 wet

    2. Feb

      60° / 35°

      4 wet

    3. Mar

      67° / 38°

      3 wet

    4. Apr

      73° / 44°

      1 wet

    5. May

      81° / 51°

      1 wet

    6. Jun

      89° / 60°

      4 wet

    7. Jul

      87° / 63°

      12 wet

    8. Aug

      85° / 61°

      12 wet

    9. Sep

      82° / 56°

      7 wet

    10. Oct

      75° / 48°

      4 wet

    11. Nov

      64° / 39°

      3 wet

    12. Dec

      56° / 33°

      4 wet

    Typical high / low (°F) and days with rain or snow, 1991–2020. Measured at Bisbee 1wnw, AZ, 29.4 mi away at 5,560 ft. The station sits about 800 ft lower than this place, so expect it a little cooler here. Source: NOAA NCEI U.S. Climate Normals 1991–2020.

Routes (22)

Animal HusbandryFA: Scott Ayers,Tanya Bok & Brian Benedon5.10Direct South FaceFA: SA, AS5.10The ShepherdFA: Nathan Wikstrom and Ryan Petronella, March '215.10Absinthe of MalletFA: Scott Ayers & Steve Grossman (P1-2). Scott Ayers & Brian Griffin (P3-5). Scott Ayers & Avi Steinburg (P6-7). (Original Version 1988)5.10-Bruise the RoosterFA: Scott Ayers & Avi Steinburg5.10-The Climb Too Tough To DieFA: Scott Ayers & Mike Strassman (1987)5.10-The Tombstone StripperFA: Scott Ayers & Bart Murphy (1987). Scott Ayers & Tanya Bok (2007)5.10-Bantam of the OperaFA: Scott Ayers, Avi Steinburg & Charlie King5.10+Get The Flock Out Of HereFA: Scott Ayers, Steve Haire & Steve Amter (1987). Scott Ayers, Tanya Bok & Avi Steinburg5.10+The Last RoundupFA: Scott Ayers, Tanya Bok, Avi Steinburg, & Charlie King5.10+Unmitigated AudacityFA: Scott Ayers, Dave Burke & Logan Litchtenhan5.10+Ides of MiddlemarchFA: Mike Strassman & Scott Ayers (1987)5.10aPhony PonyFA: Scott Ayers, Steve Amter, Avi Steinburg, Dave Burke, Charlie King & Tanya Bok5.10aThe PeacemakerFA: Scott Ayers5.10aDark HorseFA: Scott Ayers & Steve Amter (1987). Scott Ayers, Charlie King & Tanya Bok5.10a/bMad Cow DiseaseFA: Scott Ayers, Avi Steinburg & Trent Baker5.11Burning CalvesFA: Scott Ayers, Avi Steinberg and Tanya Bok5.11aStampedeFA: Scott Ayers & Mark Colby5.11aEwephoriaFA: Scott Ayers5.8Greedy Little Varmint5.8-Hardskins of Our ForefathersFA: Shawn Davis and John White5.9Ranch Hands5.9

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