Virginia · Rock climbing · Salem · Near Buchanan

Middle Dragon

Middle DragonPhoto: Idawriter, CC BY-SA 3.0 (via Wikimedia Commons)
5 routes
V1-2 – V7
Bouldering
Mar–Apr, Aug–Nov
best months

Middle Dragon is a bouldering area in Virginia, set along the Appalachian National Scenic Trail within a National Park Service unit. It sits among a cluster of other climbing and hiking spots, so it works well as a stop in a broader outing on the trail or the surrounding park. Bouldering is the focus here, with five routes spread across the V1-2 to V7 range. Serpent Arete is the easiest, while Middle Dragon Traverse, Piasa and the Piasa L Direct Project run at V4 and V7. The Piasa L Direct Project is a direct project, so it's a good target for climbers looking for a longer challenge. For timing, late spring and early fall are the most comfortable. Typical averages from a nearby weather station in Roanoke show May highs around 76°F and September highs around 79°F. That station sits well below the area, so temperatures at Middle Dragon run cooler. Several other climbing areas are right next door, including Mayflower Boulder and Arrow Boulder Area, and McAfee's Knob Trail is close by for a hike. The Catawba Greenway Trail is within a short walk, and Straight Branch Iron Mountain Shelter offers camping about 5 miles away.

Around this trail

Add any of these when you start a trip
  • Sleep close

    Pig Farm Campsite

    Campground

    Campground · 3.4 mi from the trail
  • Eat after

    Burger King

    Fast food

    On your way back · 5 mi · Open after 6
  • If it rainsWarfieldian, CC BY-SA 3.0 · Wikimedia Commons

    Virginia Museum of Transportation

    Museum

    Museum · 11 mi from Buchanan

    Transport museum in Roanoke, Virginia

Places © OpenStreetMap contributors · Photos: Warfieldian, CC BY-SA 3.0 (commons)

More in Buchanan
  • Best time to go · Mar–Apr, Aug–Nov

    Best time to visit Middle Dragon

    Best months: March–April and August–November. Best months have typical highs of 55–85 °F, lows of 30 °F or warmer (32 °F where the station doesn't record snow), at most one snowy day and no more than 12 wet days.

    1. Jan

      46° / 25°

      9 wet · 2 snow

    2. Feb

      49° / 27°

      9 wet · 2 snow

    3. Mar

      58° / 33°

      11 wet · 1 snow

    4. Apr

      68° / 42°

      12 wet

    5. May

      76° / 51°

      14 wet

    6. Jun

      82° / 60°

      13 wet

    7. Jul

      86° / 64°

      12 wet

    8. Aug

      85° / 63°

      12 wet

    9. Sep

      79° / 56°

      10 wet

    10. Oct

      69° / 45°

      9 wet

    11. Nov

      58° / 34°

      8 wet

    12. Dec

      49° / 28°

      10 wet · 1 snow

    Typical high / low (°F) and days with rain or snow, 1991–2020. Measured at Roanoke 8 N, VA, 7.3 mi away at 1,157 ft. The station sits about 800 ft lower than this place, so expect it a little cooler here. Source: NOAA NCEI U.S. Climate Normals 1991–2020.

Routes (5)

Facts about this crag

Rules & access

Fee
No fee

Source: National Park Service API