Utah · Rock climbing · Moab

Long Canyon

Long Canyon in Utah has 20 climbing routes across 13 grades, offering bouldering pads, mixed, and trad.

Long CanyonPhoto: RuggyBearLA, CC BY 2.0 (via Wikimedia Commons)
20 routes
5.10+ – 5.13-
Trad · Bouldering · Mixed

Best time to visit Long Canyon

Best months: March–May and October–November. Best months have typical highs of 55–85 °F, lows of 30 °F or warmer (32 °F where the station doesn't record snow), at most one snowy day and no more than 12 wet days.

  1. Jan

    42° / 22°

    4 wet

  2. Feb

    50° / 29°

    4 wet

  3. Mar

    62° / 37°

    5 wet

  4. Apr

    70° / 44°

    5 wet

  5. May

    80° / 53°

    5 wet

  6. Jun

    93° / 63°

    3 wet

  7. Jul

    99° / 70°

    5 wet

  8. Aug

    96° / 68°

    6 wet

  9. Sep

    87° / 58°

    5 wet

  10. Oct

    72° / 44°

    5 wet

  11. Nov

    56° / 33°

    4 wet

  12. Dec

    42° / 24°

    4 wet

Typical high / low (°F) and days with rain or snow, 1991–2020. Measured at Arches Np Hqs, UT, 5.8 mi away at 4,093 ft. This station doesn't record snowfall. Source: NOAA NCEI U.S. Climate Normals 1991–2020.

Long Canyon is a climbing area in Utah on Bureau of Land Management land within the Moab Field Office. It sits among a cluster of other climbing spots, with Gin & Tectonics and the Triple Buttress Area each about 0.3 miles away and Forming Arch about 0.6 miles off. The area has 20 routes, mostly trad with a few boulders. The YDS grades run from 5.10a up to 5.13-, with the median around 5.11+. Among the named routes are The Tiff at 5.10a, Caprica Six at 5.11 and Radioactive Porksickle at 5.13-. Spring and fall are the most comfortable times to visit. Typical averages from a nearby weather station show April highs around 70°F and October highs around 72°F, while July averages near 99°F. For more time on the land, the Pothole Arch Trail and Rockstacker Trail are both about 1.7 miles away. Gold Bar Group Sites and William's Bottom Campground offer camping within about 4 miles.

Routes (20)

Mouth of Long Canyon Offwidth Boulders (MOLCOW area)(2)

JHOWV1-MOLCOWV3

Keep exploring — more climbs worth the drive

Gin & TectonicsPhoto: logopop, CC BY-SA 3.0 (via Wikimedia Commons)

Gin & Tectonics

~1 min drive

Gin & Tectonics is a Utah climbing crag with 8 routes.

Forming ArchPhoto: RuggyBearLA, CC BY 2.0 (via Wikimedia Commons)

Forming Arch

~1 min drive

Forming Arch in Utah has 6 traditional climbing routes across 4 difficulty grades.

Deadman's ButtressPhoto: RuggyBearLA, CC BY 2.0 (via Wikimedia Commons)

Deadman's Buttress

~1 min drive

Deadman's Buttress in Utah offers 12 climbing routes across 8 difficulty grades, featuring mixed and traditional styles.

The ShipyardPhoto: RuggyBearLA, CC BY 2.0 (via Wikimedia Commons)

The Shipyard

~1 min drive

Shipyard, The is a climbing area in Utah with 8 routes, 6 difficulty grades, and traditional climbing style.

First SwitchbackPhoto: RuggyBearLA, CC BY 2.0 (via Wikimedia Commons)

First Switchback

~1 min drive

First Switchback is a Utah climbing crag with 7 routes across 5 grades.

Buttress Two (Bond Buttress)Photo: logopop, CC BY-SA 3.0 (via Wikimedia Commons)

Buttress Two (Bond Buttress)

~2 min drive

7 traditional climbing routes at Buttress Two (Bond Buttress) in Utah.

Shady CragPhoto: logopop, CC BY-SA 3.0 (via Wikimedia Commons)

Shady Crag

~2 min drive

Shady Crag in Utah has 11 trad routes across 7 difficulty grades.

Maverick ButtressPhoto: RuggyBearLA, CC BY 2.0 (via Wikimedia Commons)

Maverick Buttress

~2 min drive

Maverick Buttress in Utah has 25 climbing routes across 14 grades, offering sport and trad styles.

Reptilian WallPhoto: runt35, CC BY 3.0 (via Wikimedia Commons)

Reptilian Wall

~3 min drive

Reptilian Wall in Utah has 16 trad climbing routes across 6 grades.

Priapism PillarPhoto: runt35, CC BY 3.0 (via Wikimedia Commons)

Priapism Pillar

~3 min drive

Priapism Pillar in Utah has 6 routes with 4 difficulty grades, offering sport and trad climbing.