Utah · Rock climbing · Moab

Priapism Pillar

Priapism Pillar in Utah has 6 routes with 4 difficulty grades, offering sport and trad climbing.

Priapism PillarPhoto: runt35, CC BY 3.0 (via Wikimedia Commons)
6 routes
5.9 – 5.11-
Trad · Sport

Best time to visit Priapism Pillar

Best months: March–May and October–November. Best months have typical highs of 55–85 °F, lows of 30 °F or warmer (32 °F where the station doesn't record snow), at most one snowy day and no more than 12 wet days.

  1. Jan

    42° / 22°

    4 wet

  2. Feb

    50° / 29°

    4 wet

  3. Mar

    62° / 37°

    5 wet

  4. Apr

    70° / 44°

    5 wet

  5. May

    80° / 53°

    5 wet

  6. Jun

    93° / 63°

    3 wet

  7. Jul

    99° / 70°

    5 wet

  8. Aug

    96° / 68°

    6 wet

  9. Sep

    87° / 58°

    5 wet

  10. Oct

    72° / 44°

    5 wet

  11. Nov

    56° / 33°

    4 wet

  12. Dec

    42° / 24°

    4 wet

Typical high / low (°F) and days with rain or snow, 1991–2020. Measured at Arches Np Hqs, UT, 4.5 mi away at 4,093 ft. The station sits about 500 ft lower than this place, so expect it a little cooler here. This station doesn't record snowfall. Source: NOAA NCEI U.S. Climate Normals 1991–2020.

Priapism Pillar is a rock climbing area in Utah on state land managed by the State Land Board. It sits among a cluster of named trails and climbing spots, with Day Canyon and Wall Street South within a mile and the Dry Fork Bull Canyon Trail about half a mile away. The climbing here is trad-based, with six routes of roughly 5.9 to 5.11, and one sport route, Happily Ever Shafter, at 5.11. Total Eclipse of the Shart and Wiley Cryote are the hardest, both at 5.11. Most of the routes were first ascended by Evan Wisheropp, with a few climbing partners on Brown Eye of Sauron. Spring and fall are the most comfortable times to visit. Typical averages from a nearby weather station show April highs around 70°F and October highs around 72°F, while July averages near 99°F. The station sits about 500 feet lower than the pillar, so temperatures here run slightly cooler. For a longer stay, Gold Bar Group Sites is about 2.4 miles away and William's Bottom Campground about 4.5 miles.

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