Oregon · Rock climbing · Terrebonne · Near Sisters

(zz) Upper Gorge

(zz) Upper GorgePhoto: Kris Arnold from New York, USA, CC BY-SA 2.0 (via Wikimedia Commons)
33 routes
5.10 – 5.13c
Sport · Trad
May–Jun, Sep–Oct
best months

Upper Gorge is a climbing area in Oregon on Bureau of Land Management land within the Prineville Deschutes Field Office. It sits among several other climbing spots, with East Side, (5) Shakespeare Cliff and Mud Pile all about 0.2 miles away. The area has 33 routes, mostly sport climbing with a few trad options. The YDS grades run from 5.10a up to 5.13c, with the median around 5.11+. Among the named routes are Land of the Lost, a 5.10a trad climb first done by Paul Landrum and Jim Davis in 1979, and Big Tuna, a 5.13c sport route by Jeff Frizzell. For timing, late spring and early fall are the most comfortable. Typical averages from a nearby weather station in Redmond show May highs around 69°F and September highs around 79°F, while July and August average in the upper 80s. Hikers can reach Canyon Trail and Homestead Trail, both about 0.6 miles away. Skull Hollow campground is roughly 3.9 miles off.

Around this trail

Add any of these when you start a trip
  • Sleep close

    Smith Rock Bivouac Area

    Campground

    Campground · 0.8 mi from the trail
  • Eat after

    Terrebone Depot Food & Drink

    Restaurant

    On your way back · 2 mi

Places © OpenStreetMap contributors

More in Sisters
  • Best time to go · May–Jun, Sep–Oct

    Best time to visit (zz) Upper Gorge

    Best months: May–June and September–October. Best months have typical highs of 55–85 °F, lows of 30 °F or warmer (32 °F where the station doesn't record snow), at most one snowy day and no more than 12 wet days.

    1. Jan

      44° / 25°

      9 wet

    2. Feb

      48° / 25°

      7 wet

    3. Mar

      55° / 28°

      8 wet

    4. Apr

      60° / 31°

      8 wet

    5. May

      69° / 38°

      8 wet

    6. Jun

      77° / 43°

      5 wet

    7. Jul

      88° / 48°

      3 wet

    8. Aug

      87° / 47°

      3 wet

    9. Sep

      79° / 41°

      4 wet

    10. Oct

      65° / 33°

      6 wet

    11. Nov

      51° / 28°

      8 wet

    12. Dec

      42° / 23°

      9 wet

    Typical high / low (°F) and days with rain or snow, 1991–2020. Measured at Redmond Roberts Fld, OR, 7.5 mi away at 3,043 ft. This station doesn't record snowfall. Source: NOAA NCEI U.S. Climate Normals 1991–2020.

Routes (33)

Approach Gully3rdColorsplashFA: Tom Egan, March 19895.10E-Type ShagFA: Jeff Frizzell & Ted Stahl - 20015.10-Empty-Headed HoundFA: Jeff Frizzell & Jim Hayes - 19995.10-Just Do ItFA: Tom Egan & Jeff Frizzell - 19895.10-Black NailsFA: Jeff Frizzell & Bill Rogers - 20035.10+Blind Dogs Need Bones TooFA: Mark Larisch, Tom Egan, Jeff Frizzell - 19895.10+Land of the LostFA: Paul Landrum and Jim Davis 19795.10aNaxisFA: Frizzell '915.10bThe Seep5.10bThe Sign Of The PriestFA: John and Cyndee McDaniel 19925.10bDrepaneFA: Jeff Frizzell & David Kessler - October 20005.10dStarkistFA: Tyler Schlicting - 20025.11Virtual BeachFA: John & Cyndee McDaniel - 19925.11-Hail MaryFA: Jeff Frizzell - 20025.11+E-Type JagFA: Jeff Frizzell 19915.11aPink PrimitiveFA: November 8, 1990 Frizzell & Egan5.11bNatural ArtFA: Tom Egan 19905.11cBushwhackerFA: John Rich 19905.11dSpecial EffectsFA: Tom Egan April 1982/Jeff Frizzell March 1992 to a higher anchor5.11dTomb of LoveFA: Frizzell Feb 19915.11dCelibate Wives5.12aMojomaticFA: Frizzell, Egan, March 19895.12aUnique MoniqueFA: Jeff Frizzell, Alan Watts 3/19915.12aUp CountryFA: Tom Egan and Jeff Frizzell5.12aShark Infested Waters5.12bYellow FinFA: Jeff Frizzell, 20035.12bAtlas ShruggedFA: Jeff Frizzell, Ted Stahl 20025.12cChillin’ in the PenzoFA: March 19 1992, Jeff Frizzell5.12cConflicted GoddessFA: Jeff Frizzell5.12dThe UrgeFA: Jeff Frizzell5.12d[Redacted]FA: Jeff Frizzell5.13aBig TunaFA: Jeff Frizzell5.13c

Keep exploring — more climbs worth the drive

East SidePhoto: Oregon Department of Transportation, CC BY 2.0 (via Wikimedia Commons)

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(5) Shakespeare CliffPhoto: Jordan Beard, CC BY-SA 4.0 (via Wikimedia Commons)

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Mud PilePhoto: Oregon Department of Transportation, CC BY 2.0 (via Wikimedia Commons)

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(2) Windfall WallPhoto: Oregon Department of Transportation, CC BY 2.0 (via Wikimedia Commons)

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(4) Arrington ColumnsPhoto: Oregon Department of Transportation, CC BY 2.0 (via Wikimedia Commons)

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(1) Parched Cat Cliff (aka Cox Rocks)Photo: Jordan Beard, CC BY-SA 4.0 (via Wikimedia Commons)

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(5) Jungle LandPhoto: Sheila Sund from Salem, United States, CC BY 2.0 (via Wikimedia Commons)

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