Oregon · Rock climbing · Terrebonne · Near Sisters

(f) Cocaine Gully

(f) Cocaine GullyPhoto: Dougtone, CC BY-SA 2.0 (via Wikimedia Commons)
21 routes
5.10b – 5.13a
Sport · Trad
May–Jun, Sep–Oct
best months

Cocaine Gully is a climbing area in Smith Rock State Park in Oregon, on city-managed land. It sits among a cluster of other climbing spots, with Western Ship - River Face and Morning Glory Wall each about 0.1 mile away, and Aggro Gully at the same distance. Canyon Trail and Homestead Trail are both about 0.2 mile off, so the area works well for combining a hike with a climb. The climbing here is sport-based, with one trad route. Of the 21 routes, the grades run from 5.10b up to 5.13a. Chicken McNuggets is 5.10b, and Bongo Fury is the hardest at 5.13a. The median grade is 5.11b. For timing, late spring and early fall are the most comfortable. Typical averages from a nearby weather station in Redmond show May highs around 69°F and September highs around 79°F, while July and August average in the upper 80s. Skull Hollow campground is about 4.4 miles away, and South Shore Group Sites is about 8.6 miles away.

Around this trail

Add any of these when you start a trip
  • Sleep close

    Smith Rock Bivouac Area

    Campground

    Campground · 0.4 mi from the trail
  • Eat after

    Terrebone Depot Food & Drink

    Restaurant

    On your way back · 2 mi

Places © OpenStreetMap contributors

More in Sisters
  • Best time to go · May–Jun, Sep–Oct

    Best time to visit (f) Cocaine Gully

    Best months: May–June and September–October. Best months have typical highs of 55–85 °F, lows of 30 °F or warmer (32 °F where the station doesn't record snow), at most one snowy day and no more than 12 wet days.

    1. Jan

      44° / 25°

      9 wet

    2. Feb

      48° / 25°

      7 wet

    3. Mar

      55° / 28°

      8 wet

    4. Apr

      60° / 31°

      8 wet

    5. May

      69° / 38°

      8 wet

    6. Jun

      77° / 43°

      5 wet

    7. Jul

      88° / 48°

      3 wet

    8. Aug

      87° / 47°

      3 wet

    9. Sep

      79° / 41°

      4 wet

    10. Oct

      65° / 33°

      6 wet

    11. Nov

      51° / 28°

      8 wet

    12. Dec

      42° / 23°

      9 wet

    Typical high / low (°F) and days with rain or snow, 1991–2020. Measured at Redmond Roberts Fld, OR, 7.7 mi away at 3,043 ft. This station doesn't record snowfall. Source: NOAA NCEI U.S. Climate Normals 1991–2020.

Routes (21)

Chicken McNuggetsFA: Tom Heins, Pete Keane 3/915.10bHappy MealFA: Tedd Thompson, Will Nazarian. Fall 20165.10bHippos on IceFA: Cecil Colley, Gary Gallagher, Tim Olson, Winter 1990.5.10bDeep Impact5.10cHobbit's PocketsFA: Erik Wolfe/?5.10cPowder Up the NoseFA: Mark Dube5.10dArmageddon5.11aCocaine CrackFA: Watts5.11aExile On Main StreetFA: Kent Benesch5.11aShake 'n FlakeFA: Tedd Thompspn 19875.11bSkeleton SurferFA: James Fredericks, Ted Ottto, Summer 1989.5.11bVomit LaunchFA: Kent Bensch5.11bBound in BogataFA: Tom Egan, December 19905.11b/cBloodshotFA: bolted and prepped by kevin Gianino FA John Collins5.11cCrack Cocaine5.11dFreebaseFA: Dan Goodwin, 19875.12aThe BladeFA: Tedd Thompson, Darius Azin 19875.12aThieves5.12a[Redacted]FA: Kevin Lawlor, 19925.12bQuest to FireFA: FA John Collins5.12bBongo FuryFA: Jeff Frizzel5.13a

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