New Mexico · Rock climbing · Santa Fe

Top of the Grotto (Ojo and Evil Paradise Sectors )

Top of the Grotto (Ojo and Evil Paradise Sectors) in New Mexico has 20 climbing routes.

20 routes
5.9 – 5.12d
Sport · Trad

Is Top of the Grotto (Ojo and Evil Paradise Sectors ) open right now?

Alert in the area

The Forest Service lists an alert for Espanola Ranger District.

  • Headquarters Well Area Closure on Española Ranger District

    Agency alert covering Espanola Ranger District · Order 03-10-06-25-17 · USFS · Espanola Ranger District

As of · Source: USFS · Espanola Ranger District. Agencies don't list every closure — check before you go.

Best time to visit Top of the Grotto (Ojo and Evil Paradise Sectors )

Best months: April–May and September–October. Best months have typical highs of 55–85 °F, lows of 30 °F or warmer (32 °F where the station doesn't record snow), at most one snowy day and no more than 12 wet days.

  1. Jan

    44° / 20°

    4 wet

  2. Feb

    50° / 23°

    4 wet

  3. Mar

    59° / 28°

    5 wet

  4. Apr

    66° / 34°

    4 wet

  5. May

    76° / 43°

    4 wet

  6. Jun

    87° / 52°

    5 wet

  7. Jul

    88° / 58°

    10 wet

  8. Aug

    86° / 56°

    10 wet

  9. Sep

    80° / 49°

    7 wet

  10. Oct

    68° / 38°

    5 wet

  11. Nov

    54° / 27°

    4 wet

  12. Dec

    44° / 20°

    4 wet

Typical high / low (°F) and days with rain or snow, 1991–2020. Measured at Santa Fe Co Muni Ap, NM, 13.3 mi away at 6,344 ft. This station doesn't record snowfall. Source: NOAA NCEI U.S. Climate Normals 1991–2020.

Top of the Grotto, part of the Ojo and Evil Paradise Sectors, is a climbing area in the Espanola Ranger District of the Santa Fe National Forest in northern New Mexico. The Forest Service manages the land, and the area sits among a cluster of climbing sectors, with the Grotto Right (West Side), Middle Earth Sector and Grotto Left (East Side) all about 0.1 mile away. The climbing here is sport and trad, with 20 routes in total. The grades run from 5.9 up to 5.12d, and the median is about 5.11a/b. Sport routes dominate, with 16 of the 20, and the hardest is Lucifer's Hammer Drill at 5.12d. Among the trad routes is Panic Attack at 5.9, and the sport route Cruella de Vil is 5.10c. Spring and fall are the most comfortable times to go. Typical averages from a nearby weather station in Santa Fe show May highs around 76°F and October highs around 68°F, while July and August average highs near 88°F with about 10 wet days a month. The El Camino Real Historic Route Trail is about half a mile away, and Soda Springs is about 1.5 miles off.

Routes (20)

Friend of the DevilFA: A. Miller, 06-20205.10-Memory BlockFA: Vaino Kodas and Bryan Pletta, 20055.10aCruella de VilFA: Jen Payne, Vaino Kodas 20085.10cEvil ParadiseFA: Rick & Leslie Bradshaw 20005.10cSunday Bloody Sunday (aka Tight Little Package)FA: Chris Kessler & Karl Kiser (or Walt Wehner, Theo Takeda, Alisa Green, 2000, maybe also climbed earlier?)5.10cDrama QueenFA: Vaino Kodas, Gabriela Baumeister, 20095.10dEl Areto Bolto Del DiabloFA: Vaino Kodas, Jen Payne 20095.10dSweet Anne MarieFA: A. Miller, 06-20205.11-Prescribed BurnFA: Vaino Kodas and Bryan Pletta, 20055.11a/bPrison, BabeFA: A. Miller, 2004 (or FKA)5.11bHigh on FireFA: Fred Berman, Stephanie Alessandrone5.11dThe ReverendFA: Fred Berman, Stephanie Alessandrone5.11dRunning with the DevilFA: A. Miller, 06-20205.12-Sympathy for the DevilFA: A. Miller, June 20205.12-Black MassFA: Fred Berman, Stephanie Alessandrone5.12aDemon LungFA: Fred Berman, Stephanie Alessandrone5.12aOjo (del Diablo)FA: Aaron Miller, 2004 With Peter Steadman & Clay Clarke5.12bLucifer's Hammer DrillFA: Rick Bradshaw, Rick Smith, 20005.12dPanic AttackFA: Walt Wehner, Tonio Maggiore5.9Hidden SlabFA: Mark Thomas and Karl Kiser5.9+

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