New Mexico · Rock climbing · Albuquerque

Juan Tabo Canyon

Juan Tabo Canyon in New Mexico has 3 climbing routes with alpine no fixed and trad protection.

3 routes

5.0 – 5.8

Alpine · Trad

Is Juan Tabo Canyon open right now?

Closure in the area

There's a closure order in Sandia Ranger District. It doesn't name Juan Tabo Canyon, so check the source for the area it covers (3 listed).

Area Closure for Recreation Residence Structures and Property at 91 Casa Loma Road
Agency closure covering Sandia Ranger District · Order 03-03-05-26-14 · USFS · Sandia Ranger District
Area Closure for Recreation Residence Structures and Property at 69 Casa Loma Road
Agency closure covering Sandia Ranger District · Order 03-03-05-26-13 · USFS · Sandia Ranger District
Area Closure for Sandia Crest “Switchback” Hazard Tree and Fuel Reduction Project
Agency closure covering Sandia Ranger District · Order 03-03-05-26-02 · USFS · Sandia Ranger District
Mountainair and Sandia Ranger Districts Stage 1 Fire Restriction Lifted
Agency alert covering Sandia Ranger District · Order 03-03-00-26-20 · USFS · Sandia Ranger District
Mountainair and Sandia Ranger Districts Stage 1 Fire Restriction Order 03-03-00-26-05
Agency alert covering Sandia Ranger District · Order 03-03-00-26-05 · USFS · Sandia Ranger District

As of Oct 25, 11:40 am MDT · Source: USFS · Sandia Ranger District. Agencies don't list every closure — check before you go.

Best time to visit Juan Tabo Canyon

Best months: April–October. Best months have typical highs of 55–85 °F, lows of 30 °F or warmer (32 °F where the station doesn't record snow), at most one snowy day and no more than 12 wet days.

Jan
44° / 19°
Feb
48° / 22°
Mar
55° / 26°
Apr
63° / 34°
May
73° / 41°
Jun
83° / 49°
Jul
83° / 53°
Aug
80° / 52°
Sep
77° / 46°
Oct
65° / 36°
Nov
54° / 24°
Dec
43° / 18°

Typical high / low (°F) and days with rain or snow, 1991–2020. Measured at Sandia Park, NM, 5.8 mi away at 7,030 ft. The station sits about 1,400 ft lower than this place, so expect it a little cooler here. This station doesn't record snowfall. Source: NOAA NCEI U.S. Climate Normals 1991–2020.

Juan Tabo Canyon is a climbing area in the Sandia Mountain Wilderness, part of the Sandia Ranger District of Cibola National Forest in New Mexico. The Forest Service manages the land, and the canyon sits within designated wilderness, which makes it a compact, self-contained destination for climbers. The canyon's climbing is alpine in style, with two alpine routes and one trad route among the three listed. East Saddle is the easiest at 5.0, and Hanging Sling Buttress and Southwest Ridge are both 5.8. The alpine routes are the most common here, so plan on a technical outing rather than a straightforward climb. For timing, late spring and early fall are the most comfortable. Typical averages from a nearby weather station in Sandia Park show May highs around 73°F and September highs around 77°F, with lows in the 40s. That station sits about 1,400 feet lower than the canyon, so temperatures up high run cooler. Several other climbing areas and hikes lie within a mile. Shield is about half a mile away, and Pinnacle Valley and WatchTower are each under a mile off. The Waterfall Canyon Route is a hike about 0.7 miles away.