First Buttress

First Buttress is a climbing area in the Bozeman Ranger District of Custer Gallatin National Forest in Montana, managed by the Forest Service. It sits among a cluster of climbing spots and a fishing access to the Gallatin River, all within about a tenth of a mile. The Black Line Buttress and B. O. Buttress are right next door, and the Gallatin River offers a fishing stop nearby. The area has 11 routes, most of them traditional and ranging from 5.8 to 5.13b, with the hardest route, Snake Eyes, at 5.13b. The sport route is Snake Eyes, and the trad routes include Glass Catcher (5.8), Biofuel (5.10a) and No Rest for the Weary (5.10c). The easiest is Glass Catcher, a traditional climb with a 1976 first ascent by John Kravetz and Tim VanCamp. Summer is the most comfortable time to climb. At a nearby weather station in Big Sky, typical July highs reach 78°F with lows around 41°F, and August is similar. Winter is cold, with January highs typically near 30°F. The station sits about 770 feet below the area, so temperatures at First Buttress run cooler. Lava Lake and Garnet Mountain are both hikes about a mile away, and Garnet Mountain Fire Lookout offers camping at about 1.4 miles. Spanish Creek, a canoeing spot, is roughly 6 miles off.