Kentucky · Rock climbing · Beattyville

The Unlode

Unlode, The in Kentucky has 10 sport climbing routes across 5 grades.

The UnlodePhoto: Jarek Tuszyński (user:Jarekt), CC BY 3.0 (via Wikimedia Commons)
10 routes
5.10a – 5.11c
Sport

Is Unlode, The open right now?

Closure in the area

There's a closure order in Daniel Boone National Forest. It doesn't name Unlode, The, so check the source for the area it covers (2 listed).

As of · Source: USFS · Daniel Boone National Forest. Agencies don't list every closure — check before you go.

Best time to visit The Unlode

Best months: August–November. Best months have typical highs of 55–85 °F, lows of 30 °F or warmer (32 °F where the station doesn't record snow), at most one snowy day and no more than 12 wet days.

  1. Jan

    42° / 24°

    13 wet

  2. Feb

    47° / 27°

    13 wet

  3. Mar

    57° / 34°

    15 wet

  4. Apr

    68° / 44°

    15 wet

  5. May

    75° / 53°

    15 wet

  6. Jun

    82° / 61°

    14 wet

  7. Jul

    84° / 65°

    14 wet

  8. Aug

    84° / 64°

    12 wet

  9. Sep

    79° / 57°

    10 wet

  10. Oct

    69° / 44°

    12 wet

  11. Nov

    57° / 35°

    12 wet

  12. Dec

    46° / 28°

    13 wet

Typical high / low (°F) and days with rain or snow, 1991–2020. Measured at Beattyville 4n, KY, 0.6 mi away at 1,080 ft. This station doesn't record snowfall. Source: NOAA NCEI U.S. Climate Normals 1991–2020.

The Unlode is a sport climbing area in the Cumberland Ranger District of Daniel Boone National Forest in Kentucky, about 0.6 miles from the Beattyville weather station. It sits among several other climbing areas, with Hole New Wall and South Park each about 0.1 mile away and B-Hole Wall about 0.2 mile away. The area has 10 sport routes, all rated between 5.10a and 5.11c. Unconditional is the easiest at 5.10a, and Unwarranted is the hardest at 5.11c. The routes were first climbed by climbers including Clayton and Todd Sloan, Chris and Ian Kirk, and Scott Curran and Hal Garner. September is the most comfortable month, with typical highs around 79°F and lows near 57°F, and October is similar at about 69°F. Spring is cooler, with typical April highs near 68°F. The weather station sits at about 1,080 feet, so temperatures on the rock may run slightly cooler. Nearby, the Sheltowee Trace high water route is about 2.8 miles away, and Lago Linda Hideaway campground is about 3.9 miles away. The Middle Fork Red River, about 10 miles off, offers paddling.

Routes (10)

Keep exploring — more climbs worth the drive

Hole New WallPhoto: Jarek Tuszyński (user:Jarekt), CC BY 3.0 (via Wikimedia Commons)

Hole New Wall

~0 min drive

Hole New Wall in Kentucky has 9 sport climbing routes across 6 grades.

South ParkPhoto: Jarek Tuszyński (user:Jarekt), CC BY 3.0 (via Wikimedia Commons)

South Park

~0 min drive

South Park in Kentucky has 19 sport climbing routes with 15 difficulty grades.

B-Hole WallPhoto: Jarek Tuszyński (user:Jarekt), CC BY 3.0 (via Wikimedia Commons)

B-Hole Wall

~0 min drive

B-Hole Wall in Kentucky has 9 climbing routes across 8 grades, offering sport and trad options.

A-Hole WallPhoto: Jarek Tuszyński (user:Jarekt), CC BY 3.0 (via Wikimedia Commons)

A-Hole Wall

~0 min drive

A-Hole Wall in Kentucky has 9 sport climbing routes across 6 grades.

The UnHoley WallPhoto: Jarek Tuszyński (user:Jarekt), CC BY 3.0 (via Wikimedia Commons)

The UnHoley Wall

~0 min drive

10 sport climbing routes at UnHoley Wall in Kentucky, ranging across 9 difficulty grades.

The Bear's DenPhoto: Jarek Tuszyński (user:Jarekt), CC BY 3.0 (via Wikimedia Commons)

The Bear's Den

~0 min drive

Bear's Den, The in Kentucky has 36 climbing routes on 17 difficulty grades.

(1) Buckeye ButtressPhoto: Jarek Tuszyński (user:Jarekt), CC BY 3.0 (via Wikimedia Commons)

(1) Buckeye Buttress

~0 min drive

Buckeye Buttress in Kentucky has 14 climbing routes across 9 grades.

Velo CragPhoto: Jarek Tuszyński (user:Jarekt), CC BY 3.0 (via Wikimedia Commons)

Velo Crag

~1 min drive

Velo Crag in Kentucky has 31 climbing routes with 18 difficulty grades.

Chocolate FactoryPhoto: Jarek Tuszyński (user:Jarekt), CC BY 3.0 (via Wikimedia Commons)

Chocolate Factory

~1 min drive

Chocolate Factory in Kentucky has 86 climbing routes.

The GetawayPhoto: MarkDoliner, CC BY-SA 2.0 (via Flickr)

The Getaway

~1 min drive

Getaway, Kentucky climbing area with 10 routes, 6 grades, sport and trad.